We boarded a few boats during our time in Norway. First, we were cruising along the western coast of Norway on the ferry/postal ship, the Hurtigruten.
The Hurtigruten
We also took a number of ferries as part of our road trips. It’s just a natural and reliable way of life, and transportation, in the area where we were.
The electric ferries carry big loads.
On the ferry…you can get out of your car and stay out on the deck or sit inside.
And, we took two more intimate rides in a boat that Heine and Kari have at their cottage. It seats six comfortably, and they graciously took us for rides on the Norwegian sea.
Going for a boat ride.
A fun place to be!
I love the water. I love being on it, or beside it. This was a special treat.
The scenery was stunning.
The scenery was breathtaking.
The scenery was colorful.
The scenery was pastoral.
On one trip we docked in a town called Fitjar, where Kari grew up.
Enjoying ice cream in Fitter.
We disembarked and found ice cream treats, before getting back on the boat to continue our fabulous ride.
The scenery included many styles of boathouses along the sea shore…
and hilly and rocky shorelines.
What a pleasure it was to be on the water, taking in a different perspective of this absolutely, beautiful country.
Our drive to the cottage took us through beautiful countryside across the island of Stord. And once at the cottage, we were able to go on two hikes in the countryside, during our stay.
The start of our hike up to the wind turbine.
On one hike we walked up to one of many wind turbines in a hilly area along the coast, close to the sea.
A view of the wind turbines from the boat.
At the top, the view overlooked 365 islands off the coast of western Norway. Even though it was partly cloudy, we could see for miles, and we could see the North Sea beyond the islands.
Due west is the north sea.
At the top.
Three sheep met us on the way up. They walked toward us, stopped, and then turned around as though they wanted us to follow them. When the sheep turned off the main trail, they turned and looked at us quizzically, while we kept going straight.
Three sheep wanting us to follow them.
We continued to hike to the top, looked around, then headed back. The sheep met us, once again, on the way down. They seemed to be wondering why we didn’t follow them the first time, and they were willing to give us a second chance!
The three sheep, wondering where we were going.
A different hike took us through a forest to a trail that was dotted with interesting characters and trolls along the path.
Signs: The Adventure Road. The Troll Forest.
Apparently, the displays began with one man creating dioramas and placing them in the forest, along the side of the trail.
One of several dioramas.
It turned into several more figures being created, and added, to the trail.
Hello
Now it is a fun place for children, or for those of us young-at-heart, to look for these special creatures.
I see you.
Adventure Road is close to a city so children can visit the forest easily, and walk on the trail to find the treasures.
Are these the three billie goats gruff?
Our hike took us to this unique Troll Forest. It was a fun adventure.
The fairy tree, where seven different fairies meet, including Tinkerbell.
After saying good-bye to Brita’s house in Kaldestad, we took the ferry to the island of Stord, where my second cousin Heine and his wife Kari live, and work, and have a “cabin”. Heine works for a company that makes oil platforms for the north sea.
An off-shore oil rig in the making.
Kari manages a delightful home decor/gift shop, The Five Hens.
“Three hens” outside The Five Hens.
We stopped by their home in the southeast area of Stord, on the way to their cottage on the sea, located in the northwest part of the island. That day we went from my grandfather’s house, built 1882, to Heine & Kari’s house on the sea, built 2012.
The Cottage.
The cottage was a gorgeous home, with floor to ceiling windows and it sat right on the water’s edge, offering a great view. The six of us, Jomar and Bente, Gary and me, Heine and Kari, spent three nights there and had an enchanting time.
So many windows, so much light.
Besides being at the “cottage looking out over the water”, our mealtimes were memorable. Gathering around the dining table each morning, and every night, was fabulous. Not only was the food delicious, but the camaraderie was sweet.
Happy together.
Breakfast buffets in the hotels in Norway are amazing with breads, jams, soft-boiled eggs, egg dishes, meats, cheeses, fish, yogurts, oatmeal, trimmings, waffles, salads, cucumbers (and more)…they’re bountiful!
Daily breakfast at the cottage.
We had a lot of these same foods for breakfast at the cottage, except they were all set on the table in front of us. We passed the array of food back and forth, and enjoyed our leisurely breakfasts.
Breaking bread together.
Dinners were fantastic too. Scrumptious food including elk, beef ribs and a pork roll, and chicken. Yum. We would eat a late, leisurely dinner, with good conversation.
Heine grilling elk from his hunt last fall.
Another happy meal.
Lunches were eaten outside; on the deck, or on the boat.
Soup on the deck.
Our enchanting mealtimes made for some wonderful memories at the cottage.
I haven’t mentioned much about my grandmother’s family.
She grew up in Prestnes, an area next to Kaldestad. And therefore, I have relatives in the area on her side of the family too. Jarle Prestnes is another second cousin – on my grandmother’s side. His grandfather and my grandmother were siblings. We had lunch with Jarle and his wife and one daughter, at their home in Bergen. They also traveled to Kaldestad, to Jarle’s father’s home, and Gary and I went there for an enjoyable dinner with his wife, daughter, and Jarle’s sister (and therefore, my second cousin) and her husband. 😉
Redden Jane, front left and Jarle, head of table, are siblings and my second cousins.
Jarle, my second cousin on my grandmother’s side.
We did not see my grandmother’s home this time however, in 2007 we were able to see Grandma Elizabeth’s house. It is not owned by anyone in the family. In fact, I’m not sure if it is still standing.
My grandmother’s family outside their house, early 1900’s. My grandmother is Elisabet (Elizabeth), the one in the white dress.
The front of my grandmother’s house. Photo taken in 2007.
Before leaving Kaldestad, I want to highlight a new boathouse. Some of the grandchildren built a boathouse across the inlet from the old boathouse. It is twin-peaked, modern, and painted white. The boathouse fits right in on the shoreline and is very attractive.
The new boathouse is the white one between the red and the gold one.
On the cement dock by the boathouse.
It has space for several boats and currently there is a kayak, a canoe, and a very special treasure…the old wooden row boat that my grandfather’s brother, Johnannes, used for his livelihood, fishing, back in the early 1900’s.
The wooden boat underneath the kayak is the fishing boat my grandfather’s brother used in the early 1900’s.
Our times in this very special place, Kaldestad, was enjoyable, exciting, amazing and memorable! I am grateful.
While staying at Brita’s house, we were able to connect with more relatives. There was a large gathering at the house, and we were also able to visit many homes in the Kaldestad area for a more personal touch.
Gathering around the table…
Our first day in Kaldestad additional second cousins, and their families, gathered around the large, dining room table in Brita’s house.
Sodd, a Norwegian dish.
My second cousin, Sigrun, made Sodd, a national dish mainly associated with the Trondheim region. It consists of sheep and beef meatballs, cooked carrots and boiled potatoes. It was delicious. And the conversations were sweet.
Sigrun’s (in green) husband and middle son were not able to attend this gathering. We enjoyed visiting with her oldest son, and her youngest son (first person on left in the photo) and his family.
I’m trying to say how much I appreciate being together with everyone in Norway.
My second cousin Solveig, and me.
Fortunately, it was a beautiful day and we were able to move outdoors, to a patio near the summer kitchen, for dessert. The dessert table was bountiful. There was a Norwegian cream cake, an almond cake, a fudge cake, ice cream, and… Valerie‘s apple cake.
Gunnvor (she made the delicious desserts) and her husband, my second cousin, Jostein.
In the 70’s when I was in Norway I made my mom’s apple crisp recipe for the relatives and everyone liked it. The recipe was then modified to the metric system and they’ve been making this recipe in Norway for the last 40+ years and they call it Valerie‘s Apple Cake. How fun is that?
The following day at Kaldestad we visited folks in their homes.
Sigrun’s House.
First we went to the home of my second cousin, Sigrun, who’s yard is meticulously manicured and beautiful. Her father, Sigurd, was a bloomster (gardener) and ran the nursery in the Kaldestad and surrounding area. I assume Sigrun acquired her love of gardening and her amazing gardening skills from her father, and by helping with the plants in the gardens and greenhouses while growing up.
Gary, Valerie and Sigrun.
A park-like yard at Sigrun’s.
Sigurd (the bloomster) was a first cousin to my father and his house and nursery were just up the hill from Brita’s house.
An old photo of Sigurd, the bloomster, in his garden with his greenhouses in the background.
Jostein and Gunnvor’s house. The greenhouses were to the left of the house before they were removed.
My second cousin Jostein (Sigrun’s brother) and his wife Gunnvor, have lived in this house (Sigurd’s) for many years. The greenhouses are long gone, but they have pretty flowers growing everywhere too. We enjoyed coffee and desert with them.
Jostein and Gunnvor in their kitchen.Gary and I at Jostein’s.Kari and Heine at Jostein’s.Bente and Jomar at Jostein’s.
And a little farther up Kaldestad Hill, Jostein and Gunnvor’s son, Steiner, built a home. It was built within the last ten years…what a view.
From Steiner’s house up on Kaldestad Hill: LtoR Jostein, Gary, Valerie, Steiner, Kari, Gunnvor, Heine, Jomar. Stiener’s wife (Aase), and daughter are not pictured.
We were able to visit each of these families, all within walking distance of each other, and all within walking distance of Brita’s house.
All had wonderful views. All were beautiful homes. All had magnificent gardens. All were very welcoming.
One of the many highlights in Norway included our trip to Kaldestad, the area where my grandfather came from, and the where my family name originated…Kallestad (spelled Kall rather than Kald).
The area called Kaldestad Hill.
In Kaldestad, we stayed in “Brita’s house” the old farmstead, where my grandfather lived, which is still in the family. It’s a special place.
The front of Brita’s house. Built in 1881/82.
My grandfather, Torkel, lived in this house built by his father, Haktor, in 1881/1882, with his parents and four siblings. Torkel’s older brother, Johannes, inherited the house and had four children, one of whom was his daughter Brita. She never married, and lived in the house all her life. Thus, the house became known as Brita’s house. Brita died in 1982. Johannes’ grandchildren keep up the house to this day.
The side of the house with two picture windows looking out to the sea.
The house is used for special family get aways, which would include our time in Kaldestad. Gary and I stayed in this deep-rooted house with Jomar and Heine and their wives, Bente and Kari. Jomar and Heine are brothers, and my second cousins. Our grandfathers were brothers who grew up in this house.
A third side to the house, with a new deck.
An old-fashioned rose bush, in bloom, greeted us by the front door. As we walked inside it felt so comfortable. We had been there before: I was there in the 70’s and Gary and I were there in 2007.
The front porch of Brita’s house.
We climbed the painted wooden stairs to the second floor and found our bedrooms with individual dynes on the beds.
The wooden stairs in Brita’s house.
A side story: In 1972 my cousin from America and I experienced our first “dyne” in Norway…a featherbed, or down comforter as they are called today.
The room Gary and I stayed in…with two, separate dynes.
They became popular in America many years later, but not so much in the 70’s. I bought one at the store in Kaldestad (managed by Brita) and had it sent to America. It was only a few years ago that I had to finally give it up because many feathers kept poking out.
I loved sitting in the living room looking down to the sea.
Back to the house: It was a chilly evening when we pulled into the driveway at Brita’s house. Heine had arrived before us and started a fire in the wood-burning stove, so it was nice and cozy in the living room, with a view. Old family pictures of distant (and not so distant) relatives adorned the walls and it was so thrilling and delightful to be in this house where my grandfather had once lived.
The view from the living room and dining room window.
The view from the living room, and the dining room, was of the sea and sky, and we enjoyed looking out the large picture windows.
The inviting dining room table set for a family gathering.
We walked down the hill to the sea where there were two old, small, wooden buildings; an old store, and an old boathouse on the shore. They were a part of the original property. The store opened in 1903 and was prosperous when sea routes were common and roads were non existent in the area. The store moved to the roadside in 1947 when a road was built through Kaldestad. (This is the store where I bought my dyne).
Me, Bente, Kari.
The old boathouse. Heine explains something to Gary.
The store on the sea, called La-Berget (pronounced la-bar-ia) was always painted red.
Photos of the La-berget years ago, prior to it’s renovation.
But two great-grandchildren bought it from the family and did some renovations. Now it’s gray.
The La-Berget, still the same frame…but updated.
When old enough, Brita ran the store, both by the sea, and then on the roadside.
Brita at her store on the roadside…circa 1980. She rode her bicycle daily to and from the store. II bought my dyne from her.
The cash register from Brita’s store, now in Heine’s house.
The lower level is where Brita’s roadside store used to be. It has been remodeled into a single family home.
There have been many gatherings and guests in Brita’s house over the years. It is an extraordinary place.
Jomar, Bente, Kari, Heine, Me on the front porch of Brita’s house.
To be able to stay in this house and learn more of the history of my family was a precious gift that I cherish.
A fragrant rose from the rose garden next to the front porch.
In 1902 my grandfather, Torkel Kallestad (b.1885), was 17 years old when he sailed for America aboard the ship Umbria. He was sponsored by a Norwegian farmer in Iowa, and he later moved to Minneapolis. Torkel became a carpenter by trade. He had three brothers: William, who also moved to America, Haktor, who died at age 12, and Johannes, who stayed behind in Norway. Johannes was the oldest, and was to inherit the family farm. They had one sister, Kristiana, who never married.
This picture was taken in 1902 when Haktor (my great-grandfather) and his children followed Torkel to Bergen to say good-bye when Torkel left for America. Torkel is front right.
Torkel was an immigrant that left his beautiful home in Norway for better work opportunities. He was was fortunate to be able to return to his home country to visit. His first trip back to Norway was in 1910 when he met his future wife, my grandmother Elizabeth. She followed him to America in 1912, and they married in 1913.
Torkel and Elizabeth, 1913.
Elizabeth traveled back to Norway in 1925 with three of their four children (fourth one not born yet), and Torkel followed later for a short stay. Elizabeth went back to Norway in 1948 with her daughter Agnes, and again, for the last time, she and Torkel returned to Norway for a visit in 1958. She died in 1962. Torkel died in 1970.
Herbert, my father, as a young man.
One of their children was Herbert (b.1918), my father. During a health recuperation in the 60’s my father became interested in the family history and started doing research. In 1969 he and my mother took a trip to Norway to find out more information, and thus began a wonderful re-connection between our relatives in Norway and those of us here in Minnesota.
My father died in 1974, at the young age 55…little did he know what he started. We are all truly grateful for his initiation.
My father gathered the information and created this family tree. My Uncle Bob printed the posters in his print shop. Above is a poster for my grandfather’s side of the family.
This poster is for my grandmother’s side of the family.
The Norwegian and American flags flying at my cousin’s home in Norway, to welcome us.
My second cousin in Norway, Sigrun, has done, and continues to do, extensive research on the family genealogy. My Uncle Bob also helped Sigrun with research. He died in December 2021.
Sigrun, my second cousin, has done extensive research over the years.
Gary and I are in Sigrun’s dining room looking at ancestry findings.
Three second cousins (our three fathers were first cousins) together, discussing our family tree.
It’s difficult to explain how special our time was with our Norwegian relatives. It was very precious, fun and exciting!
Bergen is the second largest city in Norway and is located on the Hardangerfjord on the southwestern coast. We had a grand welcoming to Bergen after a week of traveling in northern Norway. Three second cousins and their spouses met us at the airport.
Hogne and Britt Astrid met us at the airport. It would be the only time we could see them since they were leaving on vacation the next day. There were two other couples at the airport to greet us.
While in Bergen, we stayed with my second cousin Jomar and his wife, Bente, in their lovely home. We were able to unpack, do some laundry, relax, sightsee and visit other relatives.
My second cousin, Jomar, outside their home in Bergen.
Gary and Jomar chatting in Jomar and Bente’s living room.
The day we toured downtown Bergen it was raining…it’s always raining in Bergen, they say. Not always.
Jomar and Gary visiting while Bente and I shopped.
We parked the car and walked around the harbor area…the area you see in iconic Bergen photos. We walked through old fish market which has turned into a tourist attraction,
The old fish market.
and the new fish market which is very nice, and used by locals.
Inside the new fish market.
Dried fish hanging in the new fish market.
We shopped on Bryggen street, in old, colorful wooden houses, now shops, along the wharf.
Bryggen Street.
A bright spot in the rain. This hydrangea was outside a shop in Bergen. I had not seen this color of hydrangea before. I love it.
As we were eating lunch, the sky seemed to lighten up so we decided to take the cable car, Fløibanen Funicular, to the top of one of seven mountains that surround Bergen.
Jomar and Bente in the cable car.
However, it started to rain again so the panoramic view wasn’t great…but it was still fun. We had been to the top in 2007.
The misty, panoramic view from the top of Mt. Fløyen.
Jomar and me.
The best part of Bergen was times spent in the homes of my different cousins…Jomar and Bente, Jarle and Oddlaugh, and Siv. We shared meals together, laughed a lot, learned more about our families, and created memories. They treated us like royalty.
LtoR: Magrethe (Jarle’s daughter), Jarle (my second cousin), Reidun Jane (another second cousin and Jarle’s sister), her husband Rolf, and Jarle’s wife, Oddlaug.
Me, Bente, Siv, Anne Lise, on Siv’s deck overlooking the Bergen harbor.
Dinner at my cousin Siv’s…a beautiful table setting, and a beautiful view.
Prior to our trip into downtown Bergen, we had packed Jomar and Bente’s electric/hybrid car for our roadtrip to Kaldestad.
Bente and Jomar packing the car in the rain…everything fit!
We continued on our journey to the ferry, en route to our destination…Brita’s house in Kaldestad. A blog on Brita’s house is forthcoming.
Trondheim is the 3rd largest city in Norway. Oslo is the largest, next Bergen, then Trondheim. It’s a walkable city, and that is how we got around.
Still water.
This colorful canopy of umbrellas in the downtown area made me smile.
Our first day in Trondheim, we walked the city loop before the afternoon rain came. We got a good look at what we were interested in, then settled in to read and relax on this rainy afternoon. It was a nice break to slow down and have a rest day.
The lobby of our funky hotel in Trondheim.
The next day we walked to another botanical garden. Although not as spectacular as the one in Tromsø, it was nice to visit. And we took a couple small detours on the way back, for different vistas overlooking the city.
We liked the grass border around the different beds in this garden.
A perky purple flower in the botanic garden.
The Nidaros Cathedral is Tronheim’s most famous “monument”, where royal coronations are still celebrated today.
The north entrance to the cathedral.
Nidaros Cathedral West Front.
The cathedral was built over a 230-year period, beginning in 1070 to 1300 when it was substantially completed. Nidaros is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world.
Inside the cathedral, looking towards the beautiful stained-glass rose window.
The cathedral was large with very high ceilings and spacious areas for interior seating.
The cathedral is the burial place of King Olav Haraldsson, around 1030, but nobody knows for sure the precise location of his burial place under the cathedral floor.
Nidaros Cathedral is a place near and dear to St. Olaf College here in Northfield. King Olav Haraldsson is St. Olaf College’s namesake.
The Old Town Bridge.
The Old Town Bridge is another popular attraction in Trondheim. It stretches over the Nidelva River. It was built during the reconstruction of the city after a fire ravaged the city in 1681. The wooden bridge was replaced in 1861.
Bakklandet, a view from the Old Town Bridge.
The bridge is a gateway to Bakklandet, the old town, and a very picturesque area on the eastern bank of the river. It is made up of narrow cobbled streets lined with colorful wooden houses. So quaint.
The curious bicycle lift, in Bakklandet.
This is at the top of the bicycle lift, looking down the steep hill.
Many towns along the coast are hilly, and bikes, especially e-bikes, are very popular in Norway. Trondheim has a bicycle lift…an ingenious idea we’ve not seen before. Supposedly it’s the only one in the world. It boosts you up a steep hill while on your bike. Unfortunately, we didn’t see anyone use it the few times we were in the neighborhood. We watched a YouTube video to see it in action.
We enjoyed our two 13K (8 miles) walking tours of the city, seeing many of the main tourist attractions.
Below are photos of doors I found interesting in Trondheim.
The priest’s entrance for the Nidaros Cathedral.
We passed another old church in Trondheim with a priest’s side door.
Ever since I heard of the Hurtigruten years ago, I have always wanted to take this postal/ferry working ship along the coast of Norway. I’m so glad Gary made it happen, and I was pleasantly surprised at how nice and comfortable the ship turned out to be.
This is the Hurtigruten arriving in Tromsø at midnight.
We met a fun couple the first day, well… actually the first night. We boarded the Hurtigruten at 12:30 in the morning – but it was light out so who knew?
We got into an elevator that held four people and luggage, that took us to a small foyer with locked doors so we had to take the elevator back up again. There was another couple from Norway in the elevator with us. We laughed about the elevator ride, and then, when we saw them later, we started talking and spent time together on board.
The postal flag on the back of the Hurtigruten.
Comfortable lounge chairs to sit and watch the world go by.
A nice lounge area.
The ship made many stops, but very few for any length of time, so we only got off the boat twice for an hour each time during our three nights on board. The food buffets were fabulous, and the view from the dining area – great. Our cabin was tiny, but we were only in it to sleep.
Our view from the dining room in the back of the ship.
Boat docks along the shore at one stop.
We sailed through the fabulous Lofoten Islands, which are known as one of the most stunning areas of Norway. Majestic mountains, fjords, and fishing villages dotted the coastlines.
Our ship entered the narrow passage to the Troll Fjord and it was gorgeous. We went to end of this small fjord and turned around. Again, we were blessed with a beautiful, sunny day.
Entering the Troll Fjord, a very narrow fjord, but very wide in beauty!
Along the Troll Fjord.
Also along the Troll Fjord.
As we crossed the Arctic Circle at 66*33’ N there was a special observance. We gathered on a deck and the crew pointed out an Arctic Circle marker on a rock, to indicate the latitude/longitude, as we passed by.
The Arctic Circle marker on an island in the sea.
They also offered us some oil on a commemorative spoon. I didn’t quite understand what was happening, but I got in line anyways, to get the teaspoon. Later I asked what it was I swallowed on the spoon, and found out it was cod liver oil! Fisherman, and many people above the circle, used to take cod liver oil daily (and some may still) as it is a good source of Vitamin D, and it is said to bring you a good and healthy life.
11:16pm…south of the Arctic Circle.
The only entertainment on board was the stunning views of the Norwegian coastline…and that was all we needed. We spent many hours enjoying the scenery.
We disembarked the Nordkapp/Hurtrigruten in Trondheim, anticipating more adventures.
