Tromsø

Here are four things I will remember from Tromsø, the 3rd largest city in the world above the Arctic Circle. Tromsø is a city of 71,000 people in northern Norway, 200 miles above the Arctic Circle.

The midnight sun! Photo taken at 2:16 am.

One: We spent two nights in a hotel room that overlooked a harbor. I love the sea and it was so nice to have a great view from our room. Each morning we ate our breakfast overlooking the harbor. And during the night, I would get up and look out to see the midnight sun.

In front of our hotel.
Our our hotel window…always no screens, no air conditioning. This photo was taken at 10:39 pm.

Two: The sun was shining in Tromsø. This is not an everyday occurrence. There are many cool and cloudy and rainy days. However, we were in Tromsø during a record-breaking heat wave. It was 30* Celsius which is 86* F and people kept telling us this was not normal for Tromsø. And the sun shone brightly. We spent one morning at the Telegrafbukta Park and Beach, at the southern tip of Tromsø, and submerged our feet into the sea.

Telegrafbukta Beach.

Three: We took the cable car up to the mountain ledge Storsteinen (1400 feet).

After taking in the stunning views overlooking Tromsø, we walked back down the mountain.

Tromsø
Our hotel is in the pier area.

We started out on a trail before connecting with the “sherpa steps” the remaining way down (there are 1,300 stone steps in all). We ended up at the Arctic Cathedral, another pretty icon of Tromsø.

We made a cairn to leave our own mark on top.
Sherpa steps down the mountain.
The Arctic Cathedral.
Beautiful stained glass in the Arctic Cathedral.

And four: we enjoyed the Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden, the world’s northernmost botanic garden. There were plants from the Arctic and from alpine and cool parts of all continents.

We went after dinner, so it was about 8 o’clock, and we walked around for over an hour with no concerns that it would get dark.

Maintenance sheds in the garden…with sod roofs. We saw sod roofs throughout our travels. Photo taken 8:30 pm.
Botanic garden.

The flowers were so pretty. I used my Picture This app a lot to help me identify flowers. My favorite flower in bloom was the beautiful, blue Iceland Poppy.

Iceland Poppy.

Tromsø’s most popular tourist season is in wintertime when you can see stunning Northern Lights. They also offer a lot of winter activities. Of course, in winter it’s dark most of the day.

It’s such an interesting world we live in.

A Norwegian Odyssey

It’s been two weeks since celebrating America’s Independence Day, the 4th of July. Although we didn’t get to see any fireworks in the night sky, Gary and I were welcomed to Bergen, Norway on the 4th of July with an American flag waving for us, in the reception area of the Bergen airport. A few of my second cousins met us at the airport to welcome us to Norway. What a great way to be greeted on the 4th of July. It was better than fireworks.

Warm greetings from the Norwegians, for Gary and I.
So happy to be here!

When we first arrived in Norway, a week prior to meeting up with the relatives, we flew directly up to Tromsø, a city 200 miles above the Arctic Circle…the land of the midnight sun. And we were witnesses to that sun that did not set…I saw the sun at 2 am one morning when I woke up.

The midnight sun, from our hotel room window, 2:16 am.

After two days in Tromsø, we boarded the Hurtigruten, a Norwegian coastal ferry and postal service boat that travels along the Western Coast of Norway, making many stops along the way. We had reserved a cabin on it for three nights…and it was amazing. We were delighted and surprised to realize it was more than a working ship, but very much a comfortable, not extravagant, ship with wonderful buffets at mealtime, and relaxing chairs next to large windows overlooking the magnificent beauty of the Norwegian coast. We liked the size…not too big…and the only entertainment was the breathtaking sea and scenery, and that was enough.

We were on the Hurtigruten, Nordkapp.

We disembarked the ship in Trondheim, where we spent the next two nights at a hotel. We walked around the city for two days, plus had a needed, relaxing rain afternoon.

Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.

Trondheim is the city where St. Olaf College performs choir concerts in the majestic Nidaros Cathedral. I’ve heard about this cathedral for years while working at St. Olaf. It was fun to finally see it….and when we purchased tickets…we learned the young woman behind the counter had been to St. Olaf College singing with her Norwegian women’s choir.

I don’t understand the question mark on Bergen’s airport identification sign.

Then… we flew to Bergen, where we began the second half of our trip with my wonderful, amazing Norwegian relatives, who treated us like royalty. We spent the next nine days with them and it was over-the-top wonderful!

From the airplane, along the mountainous coast of Norway.
From the airplane…along the western coast of Norway.

Norway, a country of 5 million people, is a stunningly, beautiful country with mountains, fjords, pristine shorelines, and breathtaking natural beauty. It is clean with friendly, warm and welcoming people.

In the coming days I will be posting blogs about this amazing odyssey. I will struggle with what photos to share…I took many!

If you find a penny…

It was a dreamy evening, the other night…after dark…sitting on the deck, watching the lunar eclipse. It was called the blood moon. I learned, “a “Blood Moon” happens because the sunlight shining directly onto Earth passes through the atmosphere and is projected onto the moon–giving it a red tone during the eclipse.*” It was amazing to watch. I’ve always been fascinated by the moon……

Photo of a postcard, with a moonrise watercolor by Dee Teller.

This was happening after a long day. We had driven up north of Brainerd – and back home again – to attend my uncle’s memorial service.

The cover of the memorial service brochure. All the stockings of this family hung with care.
Christmas 2021.

Uncle Bob was 94 years old when he died, last December. I last saw him in August. He was in fairly good health (he drove us to his granddaughter’s cabin down the road a couple of miles), although his hearing had deteriorated a lot.

A favorite photo of Uncle Bob in Norway.

My uncle, my dad’s brother, was a kind and loving man. He was special to both Gary and I, and many others. His memorial service was well attended. They had a wonderful program and fun photos all around. During the luncheon afterwards, some of the grandchildren handed out a scrolled-up piece of paper with a ditty about…If you find a penny think of Bob. I dismissed it as cute…but not apropos.

Some of Bob Kallestad’s family.

Later, as I was sitting on the deck and going over the day’s events in my mind, I found myself lamenting the fact that I didn’t have an elder in my life to talk things over with anymore. I found myself talking to Uncle Bob a bit that night on the deck, in the dark, watching the moon disappear – and soon Gary came and joined me as we watched the lunar eclipse together.

When we went in for the night, I stepped into my closet for something and as I reached to turn out the light there was a penny on the closet floor. An unlikely place to find a penny. 

A penny on our closet floor.

It made me smile…

* NPR 05/16

A Fishing Hut

Our recent trip to the north shore was short but sweet. We rented a cabin for two nights and made the most of it. Arriving early afternoon, we unpacked, made some hot chocolate and enjoyed settling in. Next, we went for a walk on a scenic drive near the cabin. This area of the north shore is fairly new to us…we haven’t explored much of the Two Harbors area until recently, so there is a lot to discover. The first, for this trip, being a small fishing hut on the shores of Lake Superior. Our host told us to look for it when I mentioned we were going to go for a walk.

Our first glimpse of the fishing hut.

As we walked along the curvy, Stony Point Road we crested a hill and there it was. The all- encompassing, exquisite scene of a fishing hut between pine trees and along the water’s edge – immediately reminding us both of Norway! It was picturesque, charming and old-world. Our host told us this old fishing house, built extremely well and tight, was used by fishermen to store their fishing nets and supplies.

I loved this little hut on the shores of Lake Superior.

Many Scandinavian immigrants made a living by fishing Lake Superior in those early years. There is a North Shore Fishing Museum in Tofte, MN that shares stories and the history of commerical fishing on the north shore. I will plan to revisit that museum next fall.

A picture taken the next day, on a crystal-clear winter day.

We were delighted to see this lone hut sitting on the shores of the great Gichi-Gami (Ojibwe for great sea). From now on, this may become a short jaunt off our usual route when we drive up Highway 61 along the north shore. 

Back at the cabin…

Exploring new areas is fun, especially when one has a warm and cozy cabin to return to!

Memorable Hikes – Norway 2007

Continuing my series on memorable hikes…

Incredible Beauty all around us.

Norway ~ Your Way was the name of the tour group we went with to Norway in 2007. An American partnered with a native Norwegian naturalist as a guide and he has organized one hiking trip through Norway every year for over twenty years. Ours was a group of about thirty. We traveled by bus for segments of the trip but mostly by our own legs, hiking from mountain lodge to mountain lodge. The good news was when we were not riding the bus it was carrying our luggage.

Hiking lodge to lodge.

Norway is unbelievably beautiful, and indescribable. Ask anyone who has been there. We often wondered why my grandfather, at the age of 17, left this beautiful country to come to America. I know it was for economic reasons but it must have been hard. Thankfully we have contact with many relatives still living in Norway and we have built relationships with them. I love my Norwegian heritage, and my Norwegian relatives!

The hills are alive in Norway.

Because of the astounding beauty all around it’s hard to single out one memorable hike from this trip.

Our first hike was a six mile day hike near Geilo, northwest of Olso, to get our hiking legs in place. On the second day we started our lodge-to-lodge journey. We saw reindeer and mountain sheep while hiking and came upon pools from streams of melted snow and I took off my hiking boots to put my feet in the water. It was cold, but it felt good on the feet.

Sharing the trails.

Every day, after a wonderful European (in this case – Norwegian) breakfast, we would make our lunches from the breakfast buffet and fill our water bottles. We also filled our coffee thermos’ for a morning coffee break, finding a place to sit on the trail and soak in the breathtaking views. We hiked between six to ten miles a day.

Stopping for a coffee break.

Sometimes it was difficult due to steep climbs, rocky paths and some snowy patches. We crossed many streams and one very challenging waterfall where we had to help each other across.

Beautiful waterfalls to cross.

The scenery was spectacular with dozens of waterfalls, lush vegetation, and lots of wildflowers. This area we hiked lodge-to-lodge is known as the Grand Canyon of Norway. After our treks to the lodges we took several day hikes:  we took a train up a mountain and hiked back down, another day the bus dropped us off so we could hike a back-country road to a small village on the sea. It was so picturesque and I remember stopping to smell a lot of roses!

A hiker’s hut.

We had a “free” day so we went on our own, without the group, and hiked a couple hours up a steep, defined trail and discovered a small mountain hut…a hiker’s cabin we learned…a one-room hut with a sod roof with a small Norwegian flag displayed outside, a pot belly stove inside with a small bed and table. There were emergency supplies if a hiker was in need of them. It was such a fun discovery. We signed a journal on the table inside and filled our water bottles in the clear mountain stream outside the hut.

A Fjord near the village of Mundal. I had this picture enlarged and framed and it is hanging in my kitchen.

The overall trip included so much more than hiking… we took a boat ride through a fjord, we shopped in Bergen, toured a Stav Church, and learned about Norwegian culture.

An added bonus for us…we extended our stay and spent time with my Norwegian relatives and had many more exciting adventures!

 

 

 

Norway Ties: Past and Present

Once upon a time, back in the 1800’s, Haktor Kaldestad married Brita Hovland. They were my great grandparents who lived in Norway and had five children. Johannes (born in 1878) and Torkel (born in 1887) were two of their five children.

Haktor Kaldestad (1853-1892) is the man next to the flagpole in the back.

Torkel, my grandfather, married Elizabeth and they had four children. They immigrated to the United States. Herbert, my father, was one of their sons.

In the 1960’s Herbert began working on his ancestry and started making contact with his family in Norway. Herbert traveled to Norway in 1969 to re-connect with them, and it has been a very good thing as our families continue to connect with each other to this day.

Johannes, Torkel’s brother, married Sella and they had five children. They lived in Norway. Hakon was one of their sons (a first cousin to Herb). Hakon had four children: Jomar, Anund, Heine and Siv.

Last week Jomar and his wife Bente, Heine and his wife Kari, flew to Minnesota from Norway for a vacation in the United States, to visit family and travel to the East Coast. We were grateful we were a part of their itinerary. It was a delight to have them stay with us for a couple of nights. It was not the first time they have been here…they have been to our home in Northfield before, and we have been in their homes in Norway.

We had such a good time filled with lots of laughter and joy. Many more good memories were made to add to our collection of great times together.

Happy to be hosting cousins and their wives from Norway.

The one thing I thought of as we were talking about our ancestors is that my great-grandchildren will probably not know my name, or my husband’s name. Without our ancestry chart I would not have known the names of my grandparent’s parents…how fleeting our lives are.

So I hope to make a difference in the lives of my children and grandchildren.

“Lord, remind me how brief my time on earth will be.
Remind me that my days are numbered—
how fleeting my life is.”  Psalm 39:4