Travel – Page 5 – Valerie's Voice

Happenings in Kaldestad, part 1

While staying at Brita’s house, we were able to connect with more relatives. There was a large gathering at the house, and we were also able to visit many homes in the Kaldestad area for a more personal touch.

Our first day in Kaldestad additional second cousins, and their families, gathered around the large, dining room table in Brita’s house.

My second cousin, Sigrun, made Sodd, a national dish mainly associated with the Trondheim region. It consists of sheep and beef meatballs, cooked carrots and boiled potatoes. It was delicious. And the conversations were sweet.

Sigrun’s (in green) husband and middle son were not able to attend this gathering. We enjoyed visiting with her oldest son, and her youngest son (first person on left in the photo) and his family.

I’m trying to say how much I appreciate being together with everyone in Norway.

Fortunately, it was a beautiful day and we were able to move outdoors, to a patio near the summer kitchen, for dessert. The dessert table was bountiful. There was a Norwegian cream cake, an almond cake, a fudge cake, ice cream, and… Valerie‘s apple cake.

Gunnvor (she made the delicious desserts) and her husband, my second cousin, Jostein.

In the 70’s when I was in Norway I made my mom’s apple crisp recipe for the relatives and everyone liked it. The recipe was then modified to the metric system and they’ve been making this recipe in Norway for the last 40+ years and they call it Valerie‘s Apple Cake. How fun is that?

The following day at Kaldestad we visited folks in their homes.

First we went to the home of my second cousin, Sigrun, who’s yard is meticulously manicured and beautiful. Her father, Sigurd, was a bloomster (gardener) and ran the nursery in the Kaldestad and surrounding area. I assume Sigrun acquired her love of gardening and her amazing gardening skills from her father, and by helping with the plants in the gardens and greenhouses while growing up.

Sigurd (the bloomster) was a first cousin to my father and his house and nursery were just up the hill from Brita’s house.

An old photo of Sigurd, the bloomster, in his garden with his greenhouses in the background.

Jostein and Gunnvor’s house. The greenhouses were to the left of the house before they were removed.

My second cousin Jostein (Sigrun’s brother) and his wife Gunnvor, have lived in this house (Sigurd’s) for many years. The greenhouses are long gone, but they have pretty flowers growing everywhere too. We enjoyed coffee and desert with them.

And a little farther up Kaldestad Hill, Jostein and Gunnvor’s son, Steiner, built a home. It was built within the last ten years…what a view.

From Steiner’s house up on Kaldestad Hill: LtoR Jostein, Gary, Valerie, Steiner, Kari, Gunnvor, Heine, Jomar. Stiener’s wife (Aase), and daughter are not pictured.

We were able to visit each of these families, all within walking distance of each other, and all within walking distance of Brita’s house.

All had wonderful views. All were beautiful homes. All had magnificent gardens. All were very welcoming.

Brita’s House

One of the many highlights in Norway included our trip to Kaldestad, the area where my grandfather came from, and the where my family name originated…Kallestad (spelled Kall rather than Kald).

In Kaldestad, we stayed in “Brita’s house” the old farmstead, where my grandfather lived, which is still in the family. It’s a special place.

The front of Brita’s house. Built in 1881/82.

My grandfather, Torkel, lived in this house built by his father, Haktor, in 1881/1882, with his parents and four siblings. Torkel’s older brother, Johannes, inherited the house and had four children, one of whom was his daughter Brita. She never married, and lived in the house all her life. Thus, the house became known as Brita’s house. Brita died in 1982. Johannes’ grandchildren keep up the house to this day.

The side of the house with two picture windows looking out to the sea.

The house is used for special family get aways, which would include our time in Kaldestad. Gary and I stayed in this deep-rooted house with Jomar and Heine and their wives, Bente and Kari. Jomar and Heine are brothers, and my second cousins. Our grandfathers were brothers who grew up in this house.

A third side to the house, with a new deck.

An old-fashioned rose bush, in bloom, greeted us by the front door. As we walked inside it felt so comfortable. We had been there before: I was there in the 70’s and Gary and I were there in 2007.

We climbed the painted wooden stairs to the second floor and found our bedrooms with individual dynes on the beds.

A side story: In 1972 my cousin from America and I experienced our first “dyne” in Norway…a featherbed, or down comforter as they are called today.

The room Gary and I stayed in…with two, separate dynes.

They became popular in America many years later, but not so much in the 70’s. I bought one at the store in Kaldestad (managed by Brita) and had it sent to America. It was only a few years ago that I had to finally give it up because many feathers kept poking out.

I loved sitting in the living room looking down to the sea.

Back to the house: It was a chilly evening when we pulled into the driveway at Brita’s house. Heine had arrived before us and started a fire in the wood-burning stove, so it was nice and cozy in the living room, with a view. Old family pictures of distant (and not so distant) relatives adorned the walls and it was so thrilling and delightful to be in this house where my grandfather had once lived.

The view from the living room and dining room window.

The view from the living room, and the dining room, was of the sea and sky, and we enjoyed looking out the large picture windows.

The inviting dining room table set for a family gathering.

We walked down the hill to the sea where there were two old, small, wooden buildings; an old store, and an old boathouse on the shore. They were a part of the original property. The store opened in 1903 and was prosperous when sea routes were common and roads were non existent in the area. The store moved to the roadside in 1947 when a road was built through Kaldestad. (This is the store where I bought my dyne).

The old boathouse. Heine explains something to Gary.

The store on the sea, called La-Berget (pronounced la-bar-ia) was always painted red.

Photos of the La-berget years ago, prior to it’s renovation.

But two great-grandchildren bought it from the family and did some renovations. Now it’s gray.

The La-Berget, still the same frame…but updated.

When old enough, Brita ran the store, both by the sea, and then on the roadside.

Brita at her store on the roadside…circa 1980. She rode her bicycle daily to and from the store. II bought my dyne from her.

The cash register from Brita’s store, now in Heine’s house.

The lower level is where Brita’s roadside store used to be. It has been remodeled into a single family home.

There have been many gatherings and guests in Brita’s house over the years. It is an extraordinary place.

Jomar, Bente, Kari, Heine, Me on the front porch of Brita’s house.

To be able to stay in this house and learn more of the history of my family was a precious gift that I cherish.

A fragrant rose from the rose garden next to the front porch.

Torkel and Family

In 1902 my grandfather, Torkel Kallestad (b.1885), was 17 years old when he sailed for America aboard the ship Umbria. He was sponsored by a Norwegian farmer in Iowa, and he later moved to Minneapolis. Torkel became a carpenter by trade. He had three brothers: William, who also moved to America, Haktor, who died at age 12, and Johannes, who stayed behind in Norway. Johannes was the oldest, and was to inherit the family farm. They had one sister, Kristiana, who never married.

This picture was taken in 1902 when Haktor (my great-grandfather) and his children followed Torkel to Bergen to say good-bye when Torkel left for America. Torkel is front right.

Torkel was an immigrant that left his beautiful home in Norway for better work opportunities. He was was fortunate to be able to return to his home country to visit. His first trip back to Norway was in 1910 when he met his future wife, my grandmother Elizabeth. She followed him to America in 1912, and they married in 1913.

Elizabeth traveled back to Norway in 1925 with three of their four children (fourth one not born yet), and Torkel followed later for a short stay. Elizabeth went back to Norway in 1948 with her daughter Agnes, and again, for the last time, she and Torkel returned to Norway for a visit in 1958. She died in 1962. Torkel died in 1970.

One of their children was Herbert (b.1918), my father. During a health recuperation in the 60’s my father became interested in the family history and started doing research. In 1969 he and my mother took a trip to Norway to find out more information, and thus began a wonderful re-connection between our relatives in Norway and those of us here in Minnesota.

My father died in 1974, at the young age 55…little did he know what he started. We are all truly grateful for his initiation.

My father gathered the information and created this family tree. My Uncle Bob printed the posters in his print shop. Above is a poster for my grandfather’s side of the family.

This poster is for my grandmother’s side of the family.

The Norwegian and American flags flying at my cousin’s home in Norway, to welcome us.

My second cousin in Norway, Sigrun, has done, and continues to do, extensive research on the family genealogy. My Uncle Bob also helped Sigrun with research. He died in December 2021.

Sigrun, my second cousin, has done extensive research over the years.

Gary and I are in Sigrun’s dining room looking at ancestry findings.

Three second cousins (our three fathers were first cousins) together, discussing our family tree.

It’s difficult to explain how special our time was with our Norwegian relatives. It was very precious, fun and exciting!

Bergen

Bergen is the second largest city in Norway and is located on the Hardangerfjord on the southwestern coast. We had a grand welcoming to Bergen after a week of traveling in northern Norway. Three second cousins and their spouses met us at the airport.

Hogne and Britt Astrid met us at the airport. It would be the only time we could see them since they were leaving on vacation the next day. There were two other couples at the airport to greet us.

While in Bergen, we stayed with my second cousin Jomar and his wife, Bente, in their lovely home. We were able to unpack, do some laundry, relax, sightsee and visit other relatives.

My second cousin, Jomar, outside their home in Bergen.

Gary and Jomar chatting in Jomar and Bente’s living room.

The day we toured downtown Bergen it was raining…it’s always raining in Bergen, they say. Not always.

Jomar and Gary visiting while Bente and I shopped.

We parked the car and walked around the harbor area…the area you see in iconic Bergen photos. We walked through old fish market which has turned into a tourist attraction,

and the new fish market which is very nice, and used by locals.

Dried fish hanging in the new fish market.

We shopped on Bryggen street, in old, colorful wooden houses, now shops, along the wharf.

A bright spot in the rain. This hydrangea was outside a shop in Bergen. I had not seen this color of hydrangea before. I love it.

As we were eating lunch, the sky seemed to lighten up so we decided to take the cable car, Fløibanen Funicular, to the top of one of seven mountains that surround Bergen.

However, it started to rain again so the panoramic view wasn’t great…but it was still fun. We had been to the top in 2007.

The misty, panoramic view from the top of Mt. Fløyen.

The best part of Bergen was times spent in the homes of my different cousins…Jomar and Bente, Jarle and Oddlaugh, and Siv. We shared meals together, laughed a lot, learned more about our families, and created memories. They treated us like royalty.

LtoR: Magrethe (Jarle’s daughter), Jarle (my second cousin), Reidun Jane (another second cousin and Jarle’s sister), her husband Rolf, and Jarle’s wife, Oddlaug.

Me, Bente, Siv, Anne Lise, on Siv’s deck overlooking the Bergen harbor.

Dinner at my cousin Siv’s…a beautiful table setting, and a beautiful view.

Prior to our trip into downtown Bergen, we had packed Jomar and Bente’s electric/hybrid car for our roadtrip to Kaldestad.

Bente and Jomar packing the car in the rain…everything fit!

We continued on our journey to the ferry, en route to our destination…Brita’s house in Kaldestad. A blog on Brita’s house is forthcoming.

Trondheim

Trondheim is the 3^rd largest city in Norway. Oslo is the largest, next Bergen, then Trondheim. It’s a walkable city, and that is how we got around.

This colorful canopy of umbrellas in the downtown area made me smile.

Our first day in Trondheim, we walked the city loop before the afternoon rain came. We got a good look at what we were interested in, then settled in to read and relax on this rainy afternoon. It was a nice break to slow down and have a rest day.

The lobby of our funky hotel in Trondheim.

The next day we walked to another botanical garden. Although not as spectacular as the one in Tromsø, it was nice to visit. And we took a couple small detours on the way back, for different vistas overlooking the city.

We liked the grass border around the different beds in this garden.

A perky purple flower in the botanic garden.

The Nidaros Cathedral is Tronheim’s most famous “monument”, where royal coronations are still celebrated today.

The cathedral was built over a 230-year period, beginning in 1070 to 1300 when it was substantially completed. Nidaros is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world.

Inside the cathedral, looking towards the beautiful stained-glass rose window.

The cathedral was large with very high ceilings and spacious areas for interior seating.

The cathedral is the burial place of King Olav Haraldsson, around 1030, but nobody knows for sure the precise location of his burial place under the cathedral floor.

Nidaros Cathedral is a place near and dear to St. Olaf College here in Northfield. King Olav Haraldsson is St. Olaf College’s namesake.

The Old Town Bridge is another popular attraction in Trondheim. It stretches over the Nidelva River. It was built during the reconstruction of the city after a fire ravaged the city in 1681. The wooden bridge was replaced in 1861.

Bakklandet, a view from the Old Town Bridge.

The bridge is a gateway to Bakklandet, the old town, and a very picturesque area on the eastern bank of the river. It is made up of narrow cobbled streets lined with colorful wooden houses. So quaint.

The curious bicycle lift, in Bakklandet.

This is at the top of the bicycle lift, looking down the steep hill.

Many towns along the coast are hilly, and bikes, especially e-bikes, are very popular in Norway. Trondheim has a bicycle lift…an ingenious idea we’ve not seen before. Supposedly it’s the only one in the world. It boosts you up a steep hill while on your bike. Unfortunately, we didn’t see anyone use it the few times we were in the neighborhood. We watched a YouTube video to see it in action.

We enjoyed our two 13K (8 miles) walking tours of the city, seeing many of the main tourist attractions.

Below are photos of doors I found interesting in Trondheim.

The priest’s entrance for the Nidaros Cathedral.

We passed another old church in Trondheim with a priest’s side door.

Next stop…Bergen!

The Hurtigruten

Ever since I heard of the Hurtigruten years ago, I have always wanted to take this postal/ferry working ship along the coast of Norway. I’m so glad Gary made it happen, and I was pleasantly surprised at how nice and comfortable the ship turned out to be.

We met a fun couple the first day, well… actually the first night. We boarded the Hurtigruten at 12:30 in the morning – but it was light out so who knew?

We got into an elevator that held four people and luggage, that took us to a small foyer with locked doors so we had to take the elevator back up again. There was another couple from Norway in the elevator with us. We laughed about the elevator ride, and then, when we saw them later, we started talking and spent time together on board.

The postal flag on the back of the Hurtigruten.

Comfortable lounge chairs to sit and watch the world go by.

The ship made many stops, but very few for any length of time, so we only got off the boat twice for an hour each time during our three nights on board. The food buffets were fabulous, and the view from the dining area – great. Our cabin was tiny, but we were only in it to sleep.

Our view from the dining room in the back of the ship.

We sailed through the fabulous Lofoten Islands, which are known as one of the most stunning areas of Norway. Majestic mountains, fjords, and fishing villages dotted the coastlines.

Our ship entered the narrow passage to the Troll Fjord and it was gorgeous. We went to end of this small fjord and turned around. Again, we were blessed with a beautiful, sunny day.

Entering the Troll Fjord, a very narrow fjord, but very wide in beauty!

As we crossed the Arctic Circle at 66*33’ N there was a special observance. We gathered on a deck and the crew pointed out an Arctic Circle marker on a rock, to indicate the latitude/longitude, as we passed by.

The Arctic Circle marker on an island in the sea.

They also offered us some oil on a commemorative spoon. I didn’t quite understand what was happening, but I got in line anyways, to get the teaspoon. Later I asked what it was I swallowed on the spoon, and found out it was cod liver oil! Fisherman, and many people above the circle, used to take cod liver oil daily (and some may still) as it is a good source of Vitamin D, and it is said to bring you a good and healthy life.

The only entertainment on board was the stunning views of the Norwegian coastline…and that was all we needed. We spent many hours enjoying the scenery.

We disembarked the Nordkapp/Hurtrigruten in Trondheim, anticipating more adventures.

Trolls

We saw these signs on the mountain top in Tromsø…

And then we saw these signs in a store…

so I bought this cute, little troll and added it to my backyard fairy garden in Minnesota.

Trolls are fun fairy-tale creatures hiding all over Norway, with many stories to tell.

You never know when you’ll find a troll.

Tromsø

Here are four things I will remember from Tromsø, the 3rd largest city in the world above the Arctic Circle. Tromsø is a city of 71,000 people in northern Norway, 200 miles above the Arctic Circle.

The midnight sun! Photo taken at 2:16 am.

One: We spent two nights in a hotel room that overlooked a harbor. I love the sea and it was so nice to have a great view from our room. Each morning we ate our breakfast overlooking the harbor. And during the night, I would get up and look out to see the midnight sun.

Our our hotel window…always no screens, no air conditioning. This photo was taken at 10:39 pm.

Two: The sun was shining in Tromsø. This is not an everyday occurrence. There are many cool and cloudy and rainy days. However, we were in Tromsø during a record-breaking heat wave. It was 30* Celsius which is 86* F and people kept telling us this was not normal for Tromsø. And the sun shone brightly. We spent one morning at the Telegrafbukta Park and Beach, at the southern tip of Tromsø, and submerged our feet into the sea.

Three: We took the cable car up to the mountain ledge Storsteinen (1400 feet).

After taking in the stunning views overlooking Tromsø, we walked back down the mountain.

We started out on a trail before connecting with the “sherpa steps” the remaining way down (there are 1,300 stone steps in all). We ended up at the Arctic Cathedral, another pretty icon of Tromsø.

We made a cairn to leave our own mark on top.

Beautiful stained glass in the Arctic Cathedral.

And four: we enjoyed the Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden, the world’s northernmost botanic garden. There were plants from the Arctic and from alpine and cool parts of all continents.

We went after dinner, so it was about 8 o’clock, and we walked around for over an hour with no concerns that it would get dark.

Maintenance sheds in the garden…with sod roofs. We saw sod roofs throughout our travels. Photo taken 8:30 pm.

The flowers were so pretty. I used my Picture This app a lot to help me identify flowers. My favorite flower in bloom was the beautiful, blue Iceland Poppy.

Tromsø’s most popular tourist season is in wintertime when you can see stunning Northern Lights. They also offer a lot of winter activities. Of course, in winter it’s dark most of the day.

It’s such an interesting world we live in.

A Norwegian Odyssey

It’s been two weeks since celebrating America’s Independence Day, the 4^th of July. Although we didn’t get to see any fireworks in the night sky, Gary and I were welcomed to Bergen, Norway on the 4^th of July with an American flag waving for us, in the reception area of the Bergen airport. A few of my second cousins met us at the airport to welcome us to Norway. What a great way to be greeted on the 4^th of July. It was better than fireworks.

Warm greetings from the Norwegians, for Gary and I.

When we first arrived in Norway, a week prior to meeting up with the relatives, we flew directly up to Tromsø, a city 200 miles above the Arctic Circle…the land of the midnight sun. And we were witnesses to that sun that did not set…I saw the sun at 2 am one morning when I woke up.

The midnight sun, from our hotel room window, 2:16 am.

After two days in Tromsø, we boarded the Hurtigruten, a Norwegian coastal ferry and postal service boat that travels along the Western Coast of Norway, making many stops along the way. We had reserved a cabin on it for three nights…and it was amazing. We were delighted and surprised to realize it was more than a working ship, but very much a comfortable, not extravagant, ship with wonderful buffets at mealtime, and relaxing chairs next to large windows overlooking the magnificent beauty of the Norwegian coast. We liked the size…not too big…and the only entertainment was the breathtaking sea and scenery, and that was enough.

We disembarked the ship in Trondheim, where we spent the next two nights at a hotel. We walked around the city for two days, plus had a needed, relaxing rain afternoon.

Trondheim is the city where St. Olaf College performs choir concerts in the majestic Nidaros Cathedral. I’ve heard about this cathedral for years while working at St. Olaf. It was fun to finally see it….and when we purchased tickets…we learned the young woman behind the counter had been to St. Olaf College singing with her Norwegian women’s choir.

I don’t understand the question mark on Bergen’s airport identification sign.

Then… we flew to Bergen, where we began the second half of our trip with my wonderful, amazing Norwegian relatives, who treated us like royalty. We spent the next nine days with them and it was over-the-top wonderful!

From the airplane, along the mountainous coast of Norway.

From the airplane…along the western coast of Norway.

Norway, a country of 5 million people, is a stunningly, beautiful country with mountains, fjords, pristine shorelines, and breathtaking natural beauty. It is clean with friendly, warm and welcoming people.

In the coming days I will be posting blogs about this amazing odyssey. I will struggle with what photos to share…I took many!

John Deere Tractor Museum

We were staying near Waterloo Iowa for a few days this week, on a bike trip with friends.We’ve never been to Waterloo. While we enjoyed Cedar Falls (a neighboring town) better, Waterloo boasted a John Deere Tractor Museum.

Because it was raining, we decided to visit this tractor museum, since we couldn’t ride our bicycles. The museum was well done. It was sizeable. And it was free!

John Deere Waterloo Boy Model “N” Tractor, 1920 in the lobby of the museum.

I find these early steel wheels very interesting.

My husband grew up on a dairy farm in Pennsylvania. His family never owned a John Deere tractor. They had Farmall and International Harvesters. There seems to be a lot of rivalry, and friendly banter, between tractor owners…but Gary found this museum – focusing on these green tractors – very interesting. As did we all.

Gary reminiscing using a slide rule and drafting board work stations in the “good old days” when he did engineering work.

As per usual, interesting stories were told on story boards throughout the museum.

Tractors have come a long way…from the walking plow to the modern, gigantic tractors that have several steps to get up into the cab…

I don’t remember the model of this huge tractor.

…and, that cab has air conditioning, cushioned seats, wrap-around windows and a state-of-the-art computer system. I know we’ve all seen these big machines in the fields. At night they look like space aliens out there.

The steps up into the cab of this tractor.

John Deere also manufactures the riding lawn mowers that are popular, and they used to make bicycles. In fact, a guy in our group used to own a John Deere bicycle…he was lamenting the fact that he got rid of it.

The museum was informative, and we all enjoyed it. It is definitely worth a visit…we would go to visit it again, given the chance.

When we were through the museum, the rain had stopped, the sun came out, and we were able to get back to biking.