Our first morning up on the north shore I followed my usual routine of rising early to watch the sunrise over Lake Superior. Soon it turned cloudy so we decided it would be a good morning to enjoy a drive through the woods. We had the luxury of time.
Beautiful maple leaves.
The sky was gray and the weather cool and crisp. With hot coffee in hand, we grabbed our warm jackets, climbed in our truck, and took off on a suggested fall color tour route.
As we drove around the Tofte-Lutsen area we were witness to some amazing fall colors: red maples, yellow aspen and birch trees standing among the ever-green pine trees with an occasional still green or lime-green leaves on deciduous trees.
Fluorescent orange and lime-green leaves among evergreen.
At times it felt like we were driving through a fluorescent-lit tunnel. Even though the sky was cloudy the road seemed bright. The canopy of trees with magnificent colors overhead on this gravel, back road was beautiful.
Yellows to reds…
After many years of coming up to this area we know our way around fairly well but we always find something, or somewhere, new to explore. This year we talked to a local business owner and asked where he would drive to look at fall colors. He gave us directions to a back road leading to a lake surrounded by maple trees. We found the road and the lake, and voilà – it was another glorious drive and sight!
An inland lake.
This was not a suggested route of the many fall color tour routes up on the north shore. It’s always fun to get off the beaten path and discover something new.
This was our first day up north. We looked forward to colorful days ahead.
Now that we are back home from our wonderful week on the north shore, I miss seeing the sunrise over the lake…but I can envision it. I have a morning routine when I am up at the cabin. The cabin’s large front windows face east, overlooking Lake Superior. I have checked the timetable to set my alarm accordingly so I don’t miss the sunrise over this big, beautiful lake.
First light. (2018)
My routine starts with “first light” about a half hour before the actual sunrise. I get up in time to make coffee, switch on the gas fireplace and open a window to heighten the sounds of the water lapping over the rocks. I rearrange a chair so I’m looking right where the sun will come up. I’ve watched it come up so many times over the years I know the spot where it will rise over the lake.
Still waiting…(2018)
When coffee is done, I turn the lights back off. It’s dark but my eyes adjust and I can see the lake and the shore and the silhouettes of the few trees out front.
Pop! It’s up. (2018)
I settle in and watch the show. On this morning the sky is dark with a sliver of orange light on the horizon… it turns bright orange-red and slowly fades into sunrise colors by spreading out, and up, to the cloud bank.
Another morning, another sunrise! Clouds back lit by the rising sun…so pretty. (2018)
I watch with a heart full of gratitude as I wait for that moment when I first see the tip of the sun’s arc and then pop…just like that it’s up. And it’s amazing and it’s quick and it’s wonderful and I am thankful for eyes to see this spectacular daily occurrence that happens whether I am watching it or not.
The sun rising over a cloud on the horizon., 2018.
I sigh with contentment, to be up at the cabin on Lake Superior, ready for a new day.
“This is the day the Lord has made, I will rejoice and be glad in it.” (Psalm 118:24 NKJV)
I have hundreds of photos of of Lake Superior sunrises. Here are a couple from the last couple of years, including my all time favorite at the end.
201620162017: this looks amazingly similar to one taken in 2016.My favorite Lake Superior sunrise photo taken in 2010.
“Let the heavens rejoice, let the earth be glad; let the sea resound, and all that is in it.” (Psalm 96: 11 NIV)
Obviously it’s not always sunny on the north shore. We love it when the sun shines and the sky is autumn blue and the lake shimmers, but there are cloudy days too. We enjoy all kinds of weather on the north shore. We try not to let the weather stop us from doing what we like to do.
It’s really hard to “catch” the hugeness of the waves on my iPhone.
On this particular day the skies were gray, the lake full of whitecaps, and the waves were huge. The waves were so loud as they crashed over the rocky shore right outside our cabin windows. It’s exciting to witness the rough seas of Gitchi-Gami (Ojibwe for “the big lake”).
Rough seas.
It’s fun to sit back and watch the tumultuous weather from inside the cozy, pine-sided cabin with the gas fireplace lit, looking out through large windows so close to the water’s edge, watching the drama of the waves unfold. The gulls are nowhere to be seen and the trees sway in the wind and the waves tumble to shore.
The waves look so small here…
We’ve experienced a storm on Lake Superior only a couple of times and we’re happy to see it, but we’re glad to have the safety and comforts of the cabin.
A corner of the cozy cabin.
Isaiah 25: 4 God, “You have been a refuge for the poor, a refuge for the needy in their distress, a shelter from the storm and a shade from the heat.”
Our annual trek to our beloved (rented) cabin on the waters of Lake Superior again proved to be refreshing, relaxing and good family time as our oldest son and his wife and daughter joined us at the cabin. We miss you TAZE!
A view inland.
From the fall color we had already seen we anticipated amazing vistas from nine overlooks on a favorite hike, the Oberg Mountain trail. It’s great trail that takes you to the top and then loops around offering a 360* view of the surrounding area.
Looking up.Looking down.
So we waited until our son and his family arrived to hike this trail. It was a sunny day and the colors were spectacular: vibrant in the sunshine with a blue sky dotted with some white clouds.
The loop trail.
Walking through the yellow and lime-green trees and stepping out into open vistas over looking Lake Superior, inland forest and lakes and surrounded by incredible colors: red, yellow, orange and evergreen… it takes your breath away.
On top of Oberg Mountain with Lake Superior behind us.
No words can describe and pictures really don’t capture the spectacular beauty we see…we are just grateful to be able to be here in the moment.
As my excitement builds for our upcoming trip to a cabin on Lake Superior another stay on a beautiful lake in Hallstatt, Austria comes to mind.
Hallstatt is a small town but big on character! It is one of those beautiful, picturesque, mountain villages on an inland lake, and we stayed at a B&B overlooking the water.
The view from our balcony.
Bräu Gasthof is the name of the B&B where we stayed in Hallstatt. It is a quaint, 15th century building (that’s 700 years old!) that used to be a brewery back in the day.
The flowers boxes hang off the balcony rail of our B&B on the top floor where our room was located.
The arched door, low ceilings, spiral staircase (no elevator) and squeaky floors all added to the uniqueness of this B&B. Our rooms were next door to our friends and we had adjoining balconies overlooking the lake (complete with swans). The views were fantastic.
The inviting front door of our B&B in Hallstatt.Morning coffee on the balcony.Swans are a usual site on the lakes.
Our first day we took a boat ride and toured the beautiful mountain lake.
Lake Hallstatt.View of Hallstatt from the boat.
The next day we took a funicular up the mountain, continued up a glass elevator to the skywalk that led to an old building perched about 1,200 feet above the town. Many years ago this building was a defensive tower built in the 13th century to protect the salt mine which is behind it, in the mountain.
The funicular tracks.Overall view of the skywalk, glass elevator, restaurant and viewing platform.The old defensive tower (now restaurant) and viewing platform.
Today the old defense tower serves as a restaurant and is adjacent to a cantilevered viewing platform, which juts out 40 feet to provide spectacular views of Hallstatt, the lake, and the surrounding mountains. This area is a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) world heritage site.
The cantilevered viewing platform overlooking Lake Hallstatt.Another view of the cantilevered viewing platform from the skywalk.
Hallstatt claims it has the oldest known salt mine in the world. Objects found in the mine have been dated to 5,000 BC and a wooden staircase was discovered in 2003 which has been dated to 1,400 BC. To this day it is still an active mine producing over one million tons of salt per year, mostly used for road and industrial applications.
Looking down on the town of Hallstatt from the viewing platform.
Our wonderful B&B, Bräu Gasthof, also operated a restaurant right on the water outside its doors and we enjoyed a long, leisurely dinner there one evening.
A fun row of boathouses on Lake Hallstatt.
Our table was along the water’s edge and next to an old boathouse used for storage. As we were visiting, an older woman walked out of the boathouse and started talking to us, asking us about our trip and where we were from, where we were going next.
Our leisurely dinner with a lovely visitor (not pictured).Picturesque boat houses near the B&B.
Her name was Verena and she was the previous manager of the B&B…it was her grandfather who started the B&B. She managed it for years and now her daughter (also named Verena) manages it. She talked about the town of Hallstatt and the days when she was in charge of the B&B. It sounded like she enjoyed her work and did some musical entertaining too. We noticed old pictures in the menu of what looked like to be her younger self. She told us she lives on the 3rd floor in the B&B. She walks up the spiral staircase several times a day. She said she chose 3rd floor for her apartment because there are a few more minutes of sunlight each day at the higher level.
The B&B restaurant on the water.
As she talked I wondered what it would be like to live in this small, remote, tourist town for a whole lifetime. Verena seemed content. I also kept thinking, as we conversed with this local woman, talking to locals when traveling always adds richness to the experience. It was a delightful visit.
Another fun tidbit about the Bräu Gasthof was their check-in system.
The check-in chalk board with names of guests and keys hanging under room number on top.
A young woman was there to help us check-in the day we arrived, but if no one is available there is a sign telling guests to find their key, find their room and breakfast is at 8! The guest names, room numbers and keys were hanging on a chalkboard near the desk.
Instructions for self check-in.
Some people visit the town for a couple hours or one day…we felt luxurious staying two days and two nights enjoying the spectacular scenery and ideal weather in this wonderful place called Hallstatt.
The view from our balcony of an early morning sunrise over the mountain.
The Oberg Trail, near Lutsen, Minnesota ascends about a quarter mile and then levels out to a 1.8 mile loop around the top of this “Minnesota mountain”. The trail has eight scenic overlooks in all directions…several looking out onto the big lake, Lake Superior, and a few overlooks facing the inland forest and a beautiful small inland lake called Oberg Lake. We’ve hiked this trail many, many times over the years…it’s an easy trail and a nice length, close to our rented cabin and a wonderful way to see spectacular vistas of Lake Superior. Some years we get to see the trees in their beautiful autumn array of color. In 2017 we saw an ample start on the fall colors. When the sky is blue it makes the colors more vibrant. This year the fall colors were emerging but the sky was clouded over. It’s still a wonderful sight and a place I love to be!
From Oberg Trail, September 2017.
Last fall our trek up Oberg Mountain we hiked the trail with our son and his wife and our five-month-old granddaughter. It was her first hike on the north shore. She wore a darling moose outfit in honor of the occasion. We didn’t see any moose but she drew attention from the hikers we passed along the trail. It’s funny how babies and dogs often provoke comments from strangers.
In 2014, an article in The Washington Post read “An estimated 94 percent of Lake Superior is covered with ice, enabling sightseers to visit the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore’s sea caves for the first time since 2009.”
Before 2014 I did not know there was a possibility of walking on frozen Lake Superior to visit the sea caves. We explored the sea caves while kayaking one summer, but to see them in the wintertime was intriguing. I love Lake Superior and I loved the idea of walking on it. As soon as I learned about this opportunity we recruited some friends and headed to Duluth for dinner and an overnight, and drove to Bayfield, Wisconsin the next day. A beach near Bayfield was the designated entry point for the trail to the sea caves. There were throngs of people with the same idea. It quickly became a very popular attraction that winter, which made for congested parking and long lines – but it was worth it.
We bundled up in our warm, winter gear, grabbed our hiking poles and walked out to see the beautiful dazzling ice formations, crystal caves, and icicles hanging everywhere off the cliff faces along the Apostle Island National Lakeshore. When the lake is not frozen the sea caves are very popular places for exploring with canoeists and kayakers. But at this point in time people could walk through, and crawl under, these same sea caves and it was awesome!
One beautiful afternoon during our stay up on the north shore, we walked along Temperance River towards Lake Superior, from the parking area to a wooden bridge that crosses over the river to the other side of the park. While on the bridge we looked downstream to the mouth of the river and there was a young man fly-fishing. As we looked upstream, towards the water falls, our son and his wife alerted us to watch for fish jumping out of the water trying to swim against the flow. It was fun to spot several fish jumping over the course of a few minutes. Some types of fish return to the stream of their birth to lay eggs. To accomplish this, they must swim upstream against the current of the stream. It looked like a tough job.
If you observe closely you can see a fish jumping in this 9 second video. Click link:
The fish jumping was one of the interesting movements we saw that afternoon.
The other interesting movement we witnessed was on the rocky beach of the state park.
I didn’t have opportunity to get a good photo of this lone dancer on the rock, but I wanted to capture the memory.
We continued hiking to the lake and found a semi-shady spot to sit down and read our books on the rocky beach when I noticed on the other side of the beach a woman dancing by herself on an outcropping of rocks. I was far enough away so she didn’t know I was watching her, but there were others close-by and she would have known they were there, but still she danced with abandonment.
And it brought me much joy.
I sensed her enthusiasm and love for the beauty surrounding her and she was expressing it by dancing. I try to express these feelings by writing and photography but part of me wants to secretly find a hidden beach somewhere and dance to my heart’s content!
“Let all who come to Love rejoice, let them sing for joy! And protect them, so that those who live in your love may dance in your light!”
An excerpt from Psalm 5 from the book Psalms for Praying by Nan C. Merrill
09/21/17 The sun did it’s beautiful thing again this morning with no clouds to obstruct our view. We leave for home today and I’m sad to say good-bye, although I’m so grateful for the time we had up here in this amazing place. I’m praising God for this incredible beauty.
Another day has begun.
Our adventures this year included hikes up Oberg Mountain (two times), Britton Peak, Shovel Point, Temperance River (several times, different areas), bike rides on the Gitchi-Gami trail, drives along Hwy 61 and inland roads, eating delicious meals right at the cabin overlooking the lake. We took time to read, reflect and just plain “sit around and watch the lake”. We pieced together a jigsaw puzzle, enjoyed campfires on the rocks… explored new places.
It was wonderful to be with our son, his wife and our five-month-old granddaughter.
Three seagulls on the rocks outside the cabin.
There were many seagulls in the air and on the rocks, an eagle that flew by several times, hummingbirds at the cabin feeder and a few ducks floating along.
Praises for incredible beauty.It was fun to see this barge heading out to sea, sailing past a beach we were exploring for the first time.We always enjoy having a jigsaw puzzle out on a table to slowly piece together during our time in the cabin. There are many puzzles available at the cabin. I chose this Tall Ships puzzle to remind me of my kayak trip watching the Tall Ships parade last summer.From Oberg Mountain.From Britton Peak.
We saw a lot of fall color on the inland trees this year, and we had several varied weather patterns: wind and rain and rough seas, and some gorgeous, clear, autumn blue skies…all makes for a wonderful week on the north shore of Lake Superior.
Our lunch spot…can’t find a restaurant with these views!
We’re going home relaxed, renewed, rejuvenated and rejoicing.
Ahhh. Here’s the morning sunrise I love to see. The sun pops over the horizon in an instant…it so surprising to see it’s not there and then it’s there. Such an amazing gift. It’s going to be another great day on the north shore.
The sun’s light trail glistening on the water.
Yesterday’s sky was a beautiful autumn blue. We went for a bike ride on the Gitchi-Gami trail, a hike at Temperance River State Park, sat on the rocks outside our cabin for reading time, walked to Tofte Park with baby Aria in the stroller, enjoyed our family time. It was a starry, starry night and we made s’mores over the campfire.
Temperance RiverSitting on the rocks outside the cabin.
