Hallstatt, Austria

As my excitement builds for our upcoming trip to a cabin on Lake Superior another stay on a beautiful lake in Hallstatt, Austria comes to mind.

Hallstatt is a small town but big on character! It is one of those beautiful, picturesque, mountain villages on an inland lake, and we stayed at a B&B overlooking the water.

The view from our balcony.

Bräu Gasthof is the name of the B&B  where we stayed in Hallstatt. It is a quaint, 15th century building (that’s 700 years old!) that used to be a brewery back in the day.

The flowers boxes hang off the balcony rail of our B&B on the top floor where our room was located.

The arched door, low ceilings, spiral staircase (no elevator) and squeaky floors all added to the uniqueness of this B&B. Our rooms were next door to our friends and we had adjoining balconies overlooking the lake (complete with swans). The views were fantastic.

The inviting front door of our B&B in Hallstatt.
Morning coffee on the balcony.
Swans are a usual site on the lakes.

Our first day we took a boat ride and toured the beautiful mountain lake.

Lake Hallstatt.
View of Hallstatt from the boat.

The next day we took a funicular up the mountain, continued up a glass elevator to the skywalk that led to an old building perched about 1,200 feet above the town. Many years ago this building was a defensive tower built in the 13th century to protect the salt mine which is behind it, in the mountain.

The funicular tracks.
Overall view of the  skywalk, glass elevator, restaurant and viewing platform.
The old defensive tower (now restaurant) and viewing platform.

Today the old defense tower serves as a restaurant and is adjacent to a cantilevered viewing platform, which juts out 40 feet to provide spectacular views of Hallstatt, the lake, and the surrounding mountains.  This area is a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) world heritage site.

The cantilevered viewing platform overlooking Lake Hallstatt.
Another view of the cantilevered viewing platform from the skywalk.

Hallstatt claims it has the oldest known salt mine in the world. Objects found in the mine have been dated to 5,000 BC  and a wooden staircase was discovered in 2003 which has been dated to 1,400 BC.  To this day it is still an active mine producing over one million tons of salt per year, mostly used for road and industrial applications.

Looking down on the town of Hallstatt from the viewing platform.

Our wonderful B&B, Bräu Gasthof, also operated a restaurant right on the water outside its doors and we enjoyed a long, leisurely dinner there one evening.

A fun row of boathouses on Lake Hallstatt.

Our table was along the water’s edge and next to an old boathouse used for storage. As we were visiting, an older woman walked out of the boathouse and started talking to us, asking us about our trip and where we were from, where we were going next.

Our leisurely dinner with a lovely visitor (not pictured).
Picturesque boat houses near the B&B.

Her name was Verena and she was the previous manager of the B&B…it was her grandfather who started the B&B. She managed it for years and now her daughter (also named Verena) manages it. She talked about the town of Hallstatt and the days when she was in charge of the B&B. It sounded like she enjoyed her work and did some musical entertaining too. We noticed old pictures in the menu of what looked like to be her younger self.  She told us she lives on the 3rd floor in the B&B. She walks up the spiral staircase several times a day. She said she chose 3rd floor for her apartment because there are a few more minutes of sunlight each day at the higher level.

The B&B restaurant on the water.

As she talked I wondered what it would be like to live in this small, remote, tourist town for a whole lifetime. Verena seemed content. I also kept thinking, as we conversed with this local woman, talking to locals when traveling always adds richness to the experience. It was a delightful visit.

Another fun tidbit about the Bräu Gasthof was their check-in system.

The check-in chalk board with names of guests and keys hanging under room number on top.

A young woman was there to help us check-in the day we arrived, but if no one is available there is a sign telling guests to find their key, find their room and breakfast is at 8! The guest names, room numbers and keys were hanging on a chalkboard near the desk.

Instructions for self check-in.

Some people visit the town for a couple hours or one day…we felt luxurious staying two days and two nights enjoying the spectacular scenery and ideal weather in this wonderful place called Hallstatt.

The view from our balcony of an early morning sunrise over the mountain.

Memorable Hikes – Lutsen, Minnesota 2017

Continuing my series on memorable hikes…

Oberg Lake

The Oberg Trail, near Lutsen, Minnesota ascends about a quarter mile and then levels out to a 1.8 mile loop around the top of this “Minnesota mountain”. The trail has eight scenic overlooks in all directions…several looking out onto the big lake, Lake Superior, and a few overlooks facing the inland forest and a beautiful small inland lake called Oberg Lake. We’ve hiked this trail many, many times over the years…it’s an easy trail and a nice length, close to our rented cabin and a wonderful way to see spectacular vistas of Lake Superior. Some years we get to see the trees in their beautiful autumn array of color. In 2017 we saw an ample start on the fall colors. When the sky is blue it makes the colors more vibrant. This year the fall colors were emerging but the sky was clouded over. It’s still a wonderful sight and a place I love to be!

From Oberg Trail, September 2017.

Last fall our trek up Oberg Mountain we hiked the trail with our son and his wife and our five-month-old granddaughter. It was her first hike on the north shore. She wore a darling moose outfit in honor of the occasion. We didn’t see any moose but she drew attention from the hikers we passed along the trail. It’s funny how babies and dogs often provoke comments from strangers.

She seemed to enjoy the hike, and so did we.

Memorable Hikes – Bayfield, Wisconsin 2014

Continuing my Friday series on memorable hikes…

In 2014, an article in The Washington Post read “An estimated 94 percent of Lake Superior is covered with ice, enabling sightseers to visit the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore’s sea caves for the first time since 2009.”

Before 2014 I did not know there was a possibility of walking on frozen Lake Superior to visit the sea caves. We explored the sea caves while kayaking one summer, but to see them in the wintertime was intriguing. I love Lake Superior and I loved the idea of walking on it. As soon as I learned about this opportunity we recruited some friends and headed to Duluth for dinner and an overnight, and drove to Bayfield, Wisconsin the next day. A beach near Bayfield was the designated entry point for the trail to the sea caves. There were throngs of people with the same idea. It quickly became a very popular attraction that winter, which made for congested parking and long lines – but it was worth it.

 

We bundled up in our warm, winter gear, grabbed our hiking poles and walked out to see the beautiful dazzling ice formations, crystal caves, and icicles hanging everywhere off the cliff faces along the Apostle Island National Lakeshore. When the lake is not frozen the sea caves are very popular places for exploring with canoeists and kayakers. But at this point in time people could walk through, and crawl under, these same sea caves and it was awesome!

Crawling through a sea cave…

Movement at Temperance River State Park

At the mouth of Temperance River.

One beautiful afternoon during our stay up on the north shore, we walked along Temperance River towards Lake Superior, from the parking area to a wooden bridge that crosses over the river to the other side of the park. While on the bridge we looked downstream to the mouth of the river and there was a young man fly-fishing. As we looked upstream, towards the water falls, our son and his wife alerted us to watch for fish jumping out of the water trying to swim against the flow. It was fun to spot several fish jumping over the course of a few minutes. Some types of fish return to the stream of their birth to lay eggs. To accomplish this, they must swim upstream against the current of the stream. It looked like a tough job.

If you observe closely you can see a fish jumping in this 9 second video. Click link:

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The fish jumping was one of the interesting movements we saw that afternoon.

The other interesting movement we witnessed was on the rocky beach of the state park.

I didn’t have opportunity to get a good photo of this lone dancer on the rock, but I wanted to capture the memory.

We continued hiking to the lake and found a semi-shady spot to sit down and read our books on the rocky beach when I noticed on the other side of the beach a woman dancing by herself on an outcropping of rocks.  I was far enough away so she didn’t know I was watching her, but there were others close-by and she would have known they were there, but still she danced with abandonment.

And it brought me much joy.

I sensed her enthusiasm and love for the beauty surrounding her and she was expressing it by dancing. I try to express these feelings by writing and photography but part of me wants to secretly find a hidden beach somewhere and dance to my heart’s content!

 

“Let all who come to Love rejoice, let them sing for joy! And protect them, so that those who live in your love may dance in your light!”

An excerpt from Psalm 5 from the book Psalms for Praying by Nan C. Merrill

It’s hard to say good-bye…

The first light, before the sunrise.

09/21/17  The sun did it’s beautiful thing again this morning with no clouds to obstruct our view. We leave for home today and I’m sad to say good-bye, although I’m so grateful for the time we had up here in this amazing place. I’m praising God for this incredible beauty.

Another day has begun.

Our adventures this year included hikes up Oberg Mountain (two times), Britton Peak, Shovel Point, Temperance River (several times, different areas), bike rides on the Gitchi-Gami trail, drives along Hwy 61 and inland roads, eating delicious meals right at the cabin overlooking the lake. We took time to read, reflect and just plain “sit around and watch the lake”. We pieced together a jigsaw puzzle, enjoyed campfires on the rocks… explored new places.

It was wonderful to be with our son, his wife and our five-month-old granddaughter.

Three seagulls on the rocks outside the cabin.

There were many seagulls in the air and on the rocks, an eagle that flew by several times, hummingbirds at the cabin feeder and a few ducks floating along.

Praises for incredible beauty.
It was fun to see this barge heading out to sea, sailing past a beach we were exploring for the first time.
We always enjoy having a jigsaw puzzle out on a table to slowly piece together during our time in the cabin. There are many puzzles available at the cabin. I chose this Tall Ships puzzle to remind me of my kayak trip watching the Tall Ships parade last summer.
From Oberg Mountain.
From Britton Peak.

We saw a lot of fall color on the inland trees this year, and we had several varied weather patterns: wind and rain and rough seas, and some gorgeous, clear, autumn blue skies…all makes for a wonderful week on the north shore of Lake Superior.

Our lunch spot…can’t find a restaurant with these views!

We’re going home relaxed, renewed, rejuvenated and rejoicing.

Sigh…it’s so hard to leave, but my heart is full.

Ahhh…

The sun coming up over Lake Superior.

Ahhh. Here’s the morning sunrise I love to see. The sun pops over the horizon in an instant…it so surprising to see it’s not there and then it’s there. Such an amazing gift. It’s going to be another great day on the north shore.

The sun’s light trail glistening on the water.

Yesterday’s sky was a beautiful autumn blue. We went for a bike ride on the Gitchi-Gami trail, a hike at Temperance River State Park, sat on the rocks outside our cabin for reading time, walked to Tofte Park with baby Aria in the stroller, enjoyed our family time. It was a starry, starry night and we made s’mores over the campfire.

Temperance River
Sitting on the rocks outside the cabin.

Have I mentioned how much I love it up here???

Gitchi-Gami

Notes from the north shore:

So hard to capture the overall uproar of the lake with my camera; an older iPhone.

Gitchi-gami, the Ojibwe word for big lake, was tumultuous when we arrived at the cabin a couple of days ago. I told my husband that if we don’t have sunshine this is second best: to see, and hear, the huge (5-6 foot) waves crash to shore…it truly is a sight to see. We were safe in the cabin…protected from the wind and rain, but I opened a window to let the sounds in. The waves were so big and wild that they erased our shoreline and covered the fire pit on the rocks where we build a campfire…but I still saw a seagull flying by and a hummingbird feeding at the feeder outside the window. The waves continued to crash to shore…all day and all night…

After dark our son and his wife and five month old baby arrived.

…In the morning it was still cloudy and rainy but the lake had calmed down. It is always majestic, a wonder, and beautiful. We stayed indoors most of the morning. When the rain let up we took a walk to Temperance River on the Gitchi-Gami bike trail which has access near the cabin. But most of the day we were paying attention to our beautiful five-month old granddaughter, another wonder and joy to watch!

The sun higher on the horizon, over the clouds. The lake is calm.

…The next morning a thick cloud covered the horizon where the sun rises over Lake Superior…I’ve seen the sun rise multiple times over the years so I know the spot where it comes up. I set my alarm to get up in time, pour a cup of coffee and then wait with my camera (iPhone) ready. I have managed to take several beautiful pictures of the sun rising over the big lake through the years. This morning my camera is close at hand, ready to take photos knowing clouds can sometimes add a beautiful dimension to pictures if the sun peaks through (and sometimes not so great – sigh). Overhead I see blue skies…it’s going to be another great day on the north shore. I wonder what the day will bring…

Lake Superior – Here We Come

As we head up to my one of my all time favorite places I will re-post the psalm I wrote a few years ago. We typically rent a cabin in September and I consider it  my “new year” since it is a relaxing, renewing and “reviewing” time for me…looking back on the past year and looking forward to the coming year.     Click here to read my post on Anticipation from September 2016.

Lake Superior Psalm

The Lord is my Shepherd

I shall thank him.

He allows me to be on the shores of Lake Superior

And hear the calming waves.

He restores my soul.

He guides me on trails of the Superior National Forest

And leads me along the rocky shores.

Even when the waves are rough – even when the lake is calm,

I am content to being near the water.

And the Lord is with me;

His creation and His majesty, they comfort me.

He anoints me with many blessings

My cup overflows and I am grateful.

Surely I will praise him and follow him

All the days of my life,

I‘m grateful to dwell in His presence

On the shores of Lake Superior.

A few photos from our camping trip

Pfeiffer Lake, near Ely, MN
The lake was like glass each morning.

We spent a couple of days camping up north near Ely, MN and then a couple more days on the north shore, near Tofte, MN. Since we were tent camping we did not have electricity to charge our phones…we could only charge them when we were in the car driving somewhere. Here are a few snippets from when I had my phone charged, and when I had my phone with me, and when the photos turned out; three big stipulations! Although it looks cloudy in several photos, we did have nice weather most of the time.

Wild rice growing in Rice Lake, near Ely, MN.
A gull flying over Lake Superior.
A rocky beach on Lake Superior. The big lake was calm and was also like glass this day.
Inviting Adirondack chairs at Naniboujou Lodge.
Off the pier at Grand Marais a schooner, the Hjordis, sails from the North House Folk School.
A couple of years ago we went for a ride on this sailboat.

Cairns

A few cairns on the shore

According to Wikipedia a cairn is: “a human-made pile of stones. The word cairn comes from the Scottish Gaelic: càrn. Cairns have been and are used for a broad variety of purposes, from prehistoric times to the present.”

One can see many cairns on the north shore of Lake Superior. We spent a few nights camping up near Tofte, MN and went hiking in near-by state parks and along the rocky shore. Wherever there were rocks there were cairns. A local woman told me Native Americans used to build cairns as trail markers.

We made our own cairn near the waters edge where we placed our camp chairs to sit and listen to the waves and read our books for an afternoon. We were able to balance eight small stones.

My cairn

Another day I witnessed a little boy, about 2 years old, walking along, happily knocking over a cairn as he passed by. It’s a good thing we are not relying on  cairns for navigation these days.