A Second Look

We were blessed to have an opportunity to travel to the north shore a second time this fall, within two weeks of our first trip up to Lake Superior.

Yellow Birch and Aspens contrast with the dark evergreen trees that line the shores of Lake Superior and Highway 61.

The first week up on the north shore we had a great time with family and saw abundant fall colors. Our second trip to the north shore we enjoyed showing off one of our favorite places to our visiting friends from New Hampshire.

The forecast was dismal…rain was predicted for every day we were to be up north. And, on our first day – the drive up – it was misty rain all day.

The beauituful, brick Split Rock Lighthouse.
The Fog Signal Building next to the lighthouse.

But, even so, we stopped at the New Scenic Café for a delicious lunch, and then toured the impressive, historic, and iconic Split Rock Lighthouse, which opened in 1910 and was deactivated in 1969. 

Looking out over Lake Superior from the platform of the lighthouse…where is the lake?
The spiral staircase in the Split Rock Lighthouse.

Looking out over the railing we could not see the big lake. It was fogged in and clouded over, but inside we climbed up the spiral staircase to the top to see the special lens. Click here to read more on this fascinating lens.

The special lens in the lighthouse, only used for special occasions now.

We also toured one of the lightkeeper houses. An antique oven was lit while bread dough was rising so it was very cozy in the house as we warmed up in the kitchen on a cold blistery day.

A docent showing off the antique oven in the light keeper’s house.

Even in the rain we stopped a few more places along the way to Tofte, where our friends had rented a condo.

A different view than I normally see of a Lake Superior sunrise.

Much to our surprise we saw the sun rise over Lake Superior the next two mornings. What a treat – what a delight! We were grateful!

The view from the deck of the condo.

For two days it did not rain, and was partly sunny…to mostly sunny.

Looking Up.

We took a another look on Oberg Mountain by hiking the trail for a second time in two weeks. The colors were fuller and even more vibrant than on our first hike two weeks prior.

From the top of Oberg Mountain.
It’s hard to capture the yellow trees closer to the lake which turn color later than the inland trees. Lake Superior is in right hand corner.

We meandered a long time at the top of Oberg, to enjoy God’s spectacular creation and amazing colors.

Another view off Oberg Mountain.
Near the mouth of Temperance River.
Along Temperance River.

We showed our friends a taste of the wonderful north shore: Temperance River, Grand Marais, Naniboujou Lodge, and we spent time on the rocks, had a bonfire, and drove one of the fall color tours on the back roads. 

The skies clearing in Grand Marais.
The Grand Marais breakwaters, backlit with sunshine clearing from the west.

It brought us much joy to show off the beauty of Lake Superior. Time went by too quickly.

A stretch of Lake Superior shoreline.

Early in the morning, on the last day, our friends headed north – they were driving back home through Canada. We headed south – back to Northfield, once again basking in the glory of the north shore and grateful for a second look at it this year

Walking at the North Shore

Walking at a two-year-old “I want to stop and look at everything pace” is a wonderful way to walk…it slows us down and opens our eyes to see things we might not notice while walking at our normal pace. We enjoyed several of these walks with our grand-daughter and her mom and dad while they were here with us on the north shore.  It was delightful.

Early morning sunrise to begin the day.

After they went back home we continued our stay at the cabin for a few more days to enjoy more hiking and biking and relaxing. One trail we always hike is the Oberg Mountain Trail. It’s a rather short hike…2.2 miles round trip. You hike up, walk around a loop on top and witness great vistas of Lake Superior and of inland trees and Oberg Lake. It’s a favorite hike of ours. 

We arrived at the trailhead early one morning and spent a good two hours meandering the top and sitting to enjoy the vistas – even stopping a couple of times to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee and muffin we brought along. We were pleasantly surprised at all the fall colors. We were not expecting these colors so early in the season.

Gary taking a photo of Oberg Lake.

Here is a photo essay from our hike on the Oberg Trail.

Oberg Lake.
This is a vista point overlooking Lake Superior. It’s hard to photograph since it’s into the sun. The leaves have not changed along the shore of Lake Superior.
One of our coffee stops overlooking Lake Superior on the left and Mt. LeVeaux.
Looking down on colorful treetops.
Mt. LeVeaux.

Such astounding beauty. It was breathtaking. Pictures, of course, do not do it justice. I am grateful for this opportunity to see this beautiful change of season, to feel it’s fresh air, and to smell the distinct fragrance of the fir trees, which also add the dark green contrast to the beautiful oranges and reds and yellows.

A Change Along Scenic Drive

On our way to the north shore we always take the scenic drive instead of the expressway from Duluth to Two Harbors. It may be a slower route, but it is, as the name describes, a scenic route along Lake Superior. About half way between the two towns is a non-descript building that looks more like a house than a store. It was called Practicals, Collectibles & Antiques.  

The nondescript building for a store.

We’ve been stopping at this unique store for years. We enjoyed browsing around and visiting with the owner who was always there. He was friendly and welcoming and recognized us. We knew he was a retired military guy who wintered in Texas but would spend his summers in his shop right across the road from beautiful Lake Superior. 

A view of the lake.

The interior of the store was lined from floor to ceiling with thousands of used books and old vinyl record albums. Shelves outlined the perimeter of the store, which displayed antique dishes, collectibles and “practicals”. We always looked forward to stopping at this quaint shop. We would usually buy a couple of books at about $1-2 a piece.  

One year we apologized for only spending $2 but he graciously said…the north shore gets a million visitors a year…if each one spends a $1 that works for me…however, I run this store because it’s fun…not for the money. 

The For Sale sign for Practicals, Collectables, & Antiques.

This year at the turnoff we noticed the large hand-written “For Sale” sign in the yard. The building was locked and empty, and we were a bit sad. I guess we knew it was coming sooner or later but it was too soon for us. 

While at the cabin we searched for additional information about the store. We found a local TV news program had interviewed the owner in Spring 2018. We learned the owner’s name is Ed Johnson and that he was loved by many (we were not surprised). We learned he ran this store for 26 years and at the time of the interview he was 76 years old.

If you look closely, you can see an outhouse in the back. There was no running water in this building. The public restroom was an outhouse.

One other fond memory I have of “Mr. Ed” is from years ago, before we got to know him a bit. My mom and I would occasionally take weekend trips together and I remember bringing her to his shop once. She was using a walker at that time and she required some extra care. He always welcomed people into his store. This time, when my mom and I left the store, he came to the door to say good- bye, and then he said to me, “thanks for taking such good care of your mom.” I don’t think any other person in the world ever told me that and it really meant a lot to me and brings tears to my eyes this day.  A simple act of kindness.

“Cheers to Ed!” We trust he and his wife are enjoying their retirement. 

Our next stop was Gooseberry Falls.

Lake Superior Psalm

As we prepare for our annual trek to the north shore I usually reread the psalm I wrote years ago. I’ve posted it before but am posting it again. It continues to capture my feelings about wonderful Lake Superior and the north shore.

A new day ~ our view of the sun rising over Lake Superior. (2017)
Lake Superior Psalm 23
 
The Lord is my Shepherd
I shall thank him.
He allows me to come to Lake Superior
And hear the calming waves.
He restores my soul.
He guides me on the trails of the Superior Forest 
And leads me along the rocky shores.
Even when the waves are rough – even when the lake is calm,
I look forward to coming,
And He is with me.
His creation and His majesty, they comfort me.
He anoints me with many blessings
My cup overflows and I am grateful.
Surely I will praise him and follow him
All the days of my life,
I‘m grateful to dwell in His presence
On the shores of Lake Superior.
 
                                                
                                                Valerie
                                                09/08
 

Off the Beaten Path

Our first morning up on the north shore I followed my usual routine of rising early to watch the sunrise over Lake Superior. Soon it turned cloudy so we decided it would be a good morning to enjoy a drive through the woods. We had the luxury of time.

Beautiful maple leaves.

The sky was gray and the weather cool and crisp. With hot coffee in hand, we grabbed our warm jackets, climbed in our truck, and took off on a suggested fall color tour route.

As we drove around the Tofte-Lutsen area we were witness to some amazing fall colors: red maples, yellow aspen and birch trees standing among the ever-green pine trees with an occasional still green or lime-green leaves on deciduous trees.

Fluorescent orange and lime-green leaves among evergreen.

At times it felt like we were driving through a fluorescent-lit tunnel. Even though the sky was cloudy the road seemed bright. The canopy of trees with magnificent colors overhead on this gravel, back road was beautiful.

Yellows to reds…

After many years of coming up to this area we know our way around fairly well but we always find something, or somewhere, new to explore. This year we talked to a local business owner and asked where he would drive to look at fall colors. He gave us directions to a back road leading to a lake surrounded by maple trees. We found the road and the lake, and voilà – it was another glorious drive and sight!

An inland lake.

This was not a suggested route of the many fall color tour routes up on the north shore. It’s always fun to get off the beaten path and discover something new.

This was our first day up north. We looked forward to colorful days ahead.

Lake Superior Psalm

Lake Superior Psalm 23

The Lord is my Shepherd

I shall thank him.

He allows me to come to Lake Superior

and hear the calming waves.

He restores my soul.

He guides me on the trails of the Superior Forest

And leads me along the rocky shores.

Even when the waves are rough – even when the lake is calm,

I look forward to coming

And He is with me.

His creation and His majesty, they comfort me.

He anoints me with many blessings

My cup overflows and I am grateful.

Surely I will praise you and follow you

all the days of my life,

I‘m grateful to dwell in your presence

on the shores of Lake Superior.

 

                                                (Valerie 09/08)