A Weekend Away

We had a great weekend up in northern Minnesota with only one disappointment…but there could have been more.

We could have been disappointed when our camping reservations, made long before Covid was on the scene, had to be changed… because of Covid. A Jay Cooke State Park ranger called and told us they had to cancel one night of our stay in the camper cabins to let the cleaned cabin “rest” between renters.

Looking up at the Two Harbors lighthouse from the shore.

But that led us to making reservations at the Two Harbors Lighthouse B&B which usually requires a two-night stay but the innkeeper let us stay for just one night. So the cancellation of a night’s stay at a camping cabin turned into an exciting addition of staying in a historic lighthouse! 

We could have been disappointed with the unusual cold weather spell for late October… the highs were only in the 20’s, but the sun was out and we had warm clothes.

From a wam & charming B&B to a cute, snow-covered but toasty warm camper cabin.
Photo by gb

With warm places to sleep – the lighthouse was cozy and our camping cabins were toasty warm – we went with the mantra: “no bad weather, just bad clothing.” We brought sufficient jackets, boots, hat, scarfs and mittens and stayed warm while hiking and enjoying the great outdoors.

The lower falls at Baptism River in Gooseberry State Park.

We hiked at Gooseberry State Park and Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, and in Two Harbors itself. 

Hiking in the Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.

Our first night, from the Two Harbors Lighthouse B&B, we saw a ship in the night right off shore. It had left the harbor and was all lit up, sailing under an almost full moon. 

A ship in the night.

Our camping cabin was in Jay Cooke State Park where there are a lot of wonderful views of vast wilderness areas and of the rocky and rugged St. Louis River. We had great meals and campfires and hiked over seventeen miles in four days.

The St. Louis River flowing through Jay Cooke State Park.

What, then, was our disappointment? 

Our exciting lighthouse reservation was at the Two Harbors Lighthouse B&B overlooking Lake Superior’s Agate Bay.

The back side of the lighthouse.
Agate Bay light show.

The lighthouse was charming and beautifully appointed with antiques and we loved the idea of staying in this historic home.

A wall in the kitchen of the B&B.
The dining room.
The claw foot bath tub.

The website says it is the oldest operating lighthouse in Minnesota. It began operation in 1892.  

However, there was no light illuminating its special code out over the dark waters from the tower that night. Why? We didn’t know, and we were disappointed.

The original Fresnel lens on display in the dining room. The Fresnel lens consists of mirrored prisms that rotated around a fixed flame supplied by oil…until 1921 when the lighthouse started using electricity.

The next day we talked with the innkeeper and she said they are waiting on a new LED bulb for the lighthouse so the lighthouse is not operating at this time. 

According to the website “the Two Harbors Light Station is designated as an active aid to navigation and is on navigational charts, as well as being a museum.” Apparently it’s not crucial for a light to be shining 24/7 these days, although usually it is on.

The light in the tower of the Two Harbors lighthouse is currently not lit.

We had been all excited to be “Keepers of the Lighthouse” but alas, it was not to be. We had a wonderful time anyway, and we wouldn’t change a thing – except the light bulb!

Lake Superior, an amazing blue color this fall day.

A Second Look

We were blessed to have an opportunity to travel to the north shore a second time this fall, within two weeks of our first trip up to Lake Superior.

Yellow Birch and Aspens contrast with the dark evergreen trees that line the shores of Lake Superior and Highway 61.

The first week up on the north shore we had a great time with family and saw abundant fall colors. Our second trip to the north shore we enjoyed showing off one of our favorite places to our visiting friends from New Hampshire.

The forecast was dismal…rain was predicted for every day we were to be up north. And, on our first day – the drive up – it was misty rain all day.

The beauituful, brick Split Rock Lighthouse.
The Fog Signal Building next to the lighthouse.

But, even so, we stopped at the New Scenic Café for a delicious lunch, and then toured the impressive, historic, and iconic Split Rock Lighthouse, which opened in 1910 and was deactivated in 1969. 

Looking out over Lake Superior from the platform of the lighthouse…where is the lake?
The spiral staircase in the Split Rock Lighthouse.

Looking out over the railing we could not see the big lake. It was fogged in and clouded over, but inside we climbed up the spiral staircase to the top to see the special lens. Click here to read more on this fascinating lens.

The special lens in the lighthouse, only used for special occasions now.

We also toured one of the lightkeeper houses. An antique oven was lit while bread dough was rising so it was very cozy in the house as we warmed up in the kitchen on a cold blistery day.

A docent showing off the antique oven in the light keeper’s house.

Even in the rain we stopped a few more places along the way to Tofte, where our friends had rented a condo.

A different view than I normally see of a Lake Superior sunrise.

Much to our surprise we saw the sun rise over Lake Superior the next two mornings. What a treat – what a delight! We were grateful!

The view from the deck of the condo.

For two days it did not rain, and was partly sunny…to mostly sunny.

Looking Up.

We took a another look on Oberg Mountain by hiking the trail for a second time in two weeks. The colors were fuller and even more vibrant than on our first hike two weeks prior.

From the top of Oberg Mountain.
It’s hard to capture the yellow trees closer to the lake which turn color later than the inland trees. Lake Superior is in right hand corner.

We meandered a long time at the top of Oberg, to enjoy God’s spectacular creation and amazing colors.

Another view off Oberg Mountain.
Near the mouth of Temperance River.
Along Temperance River.

We showed our friends a taste of the wonderful north shore: Temperance River, Grand Marais, Naniboujou Lodge, and we spent time on the rocks, had a bonfire, and drove one of the fall color tours on the back roads. 

The skies clearing in Grand Marais.
The Grand Marais breakwaters, backlit with sunshine clearing from the west.

It brought us much joy to show off the beauty of Lake Superior. Time went by too quickly.

A stretch of Lake Superior shoreline.

Early in the morning, on the last day, our friends headed north – they were driving back home through Canada. We headed south – back to Northfield, once again basking in the glory of the north shore and grateful for a second look at it this year