Our recent trip to the north shore was short but sweet. We rented a cabin for two nights and made the most of it. Arriving early afternoon, we unpacked, made some hot chocolate and enjoyed settling in. Next, we went for a walk on a scenic drive near the cabin. This area of the north shore is fairly new to us…we haven’t explored much of the Two Harbors area until recently, so there is a lot to discover. The first, for this trip, being a small fishing hut on the shores of Lake Superior. Our host told us to look for it when I mentioned we were going to go for a walk.
Our first glimpse of the fishing hut.
As we walked along the curvy, Stony Point Road we crested a hill and there it was. The all- encompassing, exquisite scene of a fishing hut between pine trees and along the water’s edge – immediately reminding us both of Norway! It was picturesque, charming and old-world. Our host told us this old fishing house, built extremely well and tight, was used by fishermen to store their fishing nets and supplies.
I loved this little hut on the shores of Lake Superior.
Many Scandinavian immigrants made a living by fishing Lake Superior in those early years. There is a North Shore Fishing Museum in Tofte, MN that shares stories and the history of commerical fishing on the north shore. I will plan to revisit that museum next fall.
A picture taken the next day, on a crystal-clear winter day.
We were delighted to see this lone hut sitting on the shores of the great Gichi-Gami (Ojibwe for great sea). From now on, this may become a short jaunt off our usual route when we drive up Highway 61 along the north shore.
Back at the cabin…
Exploring new areas is fun, especially when one has a warm and cozy cabin to return to!
We had a great weekend up in northern Minnesota with only one disappointment…but there could have been more.
We could have been disappointed when our camping reservations, made long before Covid was on the scene, had to be changed… because of Covid. A Jay Cooke State Park ranger called and told us they had to cancel one night of our stay in the camper cabins to let the cleaned cabin “rest” between renters.
Looking up at the Two Harbors lighthouse from the shore.
But that led us to making reservations at the Two Harbors Lighthouse B&B which usually requires a two-night stay but the innkeeper let us stay for just one night. So the cancellation of a night’s stay at a camping cabin turned into an exciting addition of staying in a historic lighthouse!
We could have been disappointed with the unusual cold weather spell for late October… the highs were only in the 20’s, but the sun was out and we had warm clothes.
From a wam & charming B&B to a cute, snow-covered but toasty warm camper cabin. Photo by gb
With warm places to sleep – the lighthouse was cozy and our camping cabins were toasty warm – we went with the mantra: “no bad weather, just bad clothing.” We brought sufficient jackets, boots, hat, scarfs and mittens and stayed warm while hiking and enjoying the great outdoors.
The lower falls at Baptism River in Gooseberry State Park.
We hiked at Gooseberry State Park and Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, and in Two Harbors itself.
Hiking in the Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.
Our first night, from the Two Harbors Lighthouse B&B, we saw a ship in the night right off shore. It had left the harbor and was all lit up, sailing under an almost full moon.
A ship in the night.
Our camping cabin was in Jay Cooke State Park where there are a lot of wonderful views of vast wilderness areas and of the rocky and rugged St. Louis River. We had great meals and campfires and hiked over seventeen miles in four days.
The St. Louis River flowing through Jay Cooke State Park.
What, then, was our disappointment?
Our exciting lighthouse reservation was at the Two Harbors Lighthouse B&B overlooking Lake Superior’s Agate Bay.
The back side of the lighthouse.
Agate Bay light show.
The lighthouse was charming and beautifully appointed with antiques and we loved the idea of staying in this historic home.
A wall in the kitchen of the B&B.
The dining room.
The claw foot bath tub.
The website says it is the oldest operating lighthouse in Minnesota. It began operation in 1892.
However, there was no light illuminating its special code out over the dark waters from the tower that night. Why? We didn’t know, and we were disappointed.
The original Fresnel lens on display in the dining room. The Fresnel lens consists of mirrored prisms that rotated around a fixed flame supplied by oil…until 1921 when the lighthouse started using electricity.
The next day we talked with the innkeeper and she said they are waiting on a new LED bulb for the lighthouse so the lighthouse is not operating at this time.
According to the website “the Two Harbors Light Station is designated as an active aid to navigation and is on navigational charts, as well as being a museum.” Apparently it’s not crucial for a light to be shining 24/7 these days, although usually it is on.
The light in the tower of the Two Harbors lighthouse is currently not lit.
We had been all excited to be “Keepers of the Lighthouse” but alas, it was not to be. We had a wonderful time anyway, and we wouldn’t change a thing – except the light bulb!
Lake Superior, an amazing blue color this fall day.
On our way to the north shore we always take the scenic drive instead of the expressway from Duluth to Two Harbors. It may be a slower route, but it is, as the name describes, a scenic route along Lake Superior. About half way between the two towns is a non-descript building that looks more like a house than a store. It was called Practicals, Collectibles & Antiques.
The nondescript building for a store.
We’ve been stopping at this unique store for years. We enjoyed browsing around and visiting with the owner who was always there. He was friendly and welcoming and recognized us. We knew he was a retired military guy who wintered in Texas but would spend his summers in his shop right across the road from beautiful Lake Superior.
A view of the lake.
The interior of the store was lined from floor to ceiling with thousands of used books and old vinyl record albums. Shelves outlined the perimeter of the store, which displayed antique dishes, collectibles and “practicals”. We always looked forward to stopping at this quaint shop. We would usually buy a couple of books at about $1-2 a piece.
One year we apologized for only spending $2 but he graciously said…the north shore gets a million visitors a year…if each one spends a $1 that works for me…however, I run this store because it’s fun…not for the money.
The For Sale sign for Practicals, Collectables, & Antiques.
This year at the turnoff we noticed the large hand-written “For Sale” sign in the yard. The building was locked and empty, and we were a bit sad. I guess we knew it was coming sooner or later but it was too soon for us.
While at the cabin we searched for additional information about the store. We found a local TV news program had interviewed the owner in Spring 2018. We learned the owner’s name is Ed Johnson and that he was loved by many (we were not surprised). We learned he ran this store for 26 years and at the time of the interview he was 76 years old.
If you look closely, you can see an outhouse in the back. There was no running water in this building. The public restroom was an outhouse.
One other fond memory I have of “Mr. Ed” is from years ago, before we got to know him a bit. My mom and I would occasionally take weekend trips together and I remember bringing her to his shop once. She was using a walker at that time and she required some extra care. He always welcomed people into his store. This time, when my mom and I left the store, he came to the door to say good- bye, and then he said to me, “thanks for taking such good care of your mom.” I don’t think any other person in the world ever told me that and it really meant a lot to me and brings tears to my eyes this day. A simple act of kindness.
“Cheers to Ed!” We trust he and his wife are enjoying their retirement.
